Best Brake Fluid Brand/Type
05-13-2005, 06:40 PM
#5
05-15-2005, 05:05 PM
#6
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Larrio
not true.... if you really want the best with high wet/dry boiling point you go race inspired 
motul 600
ap racing brake fluid
but since you drive on the street, just go with prestone or ATE
motul 600
ap racing brake fluid
but since you drive on the street, just go with prestone or ATE
Are you saying just to get ATE because it is cheaper? Is Motul 600 actually better but it's just more money?
Also can you buy Motul 600 locally at auto parts stores?
06-22-2005, 08:26 PM
#8
ATE blue is a race fluid, technically...it has a very high boiling point. But...it's also good for street use because of low water absorption (many race fluids absorb water quickly)....I've used it for years for both daily drivers and for autocross/road racing cars, never a problem.
The brake fluid will not "make your car stop faster" for regular driving though...the boiling point only really comes into play with constant, repetitive high speed braking.
The brake fluid will not "make your car stop faster" for regular driving though...the boiling point only really comes into play with constant, repetitive high speed braking.
06-23-2005, 10:31 AM
#9
Alright first off i agree with the vote for Valvoline Syn Dot3-4, i bet that will serve your needs great.
To adress the subject of water absorption, you want your brake fluid to absorb water, although it lowers your boiling point and makes you change it more often, without it your going to have mega rust in your expensive ABS (or non ABS but still expensive) parts.
To adress the subject of water absorption, you want your brake fluid to absorb water, although it lowers your boiling point and makes you change it more often, without it your going to have mega rust in your expensive ABS (or non ABS but still expensive) parts.
06-23-2005, 12:06 PM
#10
Originally Posted by kcryan
Alright first off i agree with the vote for Valvoline Syn Dot3-4, i bet that will serve your needs great.
To adress the subject of water absorption, you want your brake fluid to absorb water, although it lowers your boiling point and makes you change it more often, without it your going to have mega rust in your expensive ABS (or non ABS but still expensive) parts.
To adress the subject of water absorption, you want your brake fluid to absorb water, although it lowers your boiling point and makes you change it more often, without it your going to have mega rust in your expensive ABS (or non ABS but still expensive) parts.
06-23-2005, 12:10 PM
#11
The better question is. If the fluid never absorbs water, how would it rust??
I think he's referring to other brake fluids make you change it often as they absorb more water. Thus always having newer fluid in. But he's reasoning is flawed regarding the rust issue.
I think he's referring to other brake fluids make you change it often as they absorb more water. Thus always having newer fluid in. But he's reasoning is flawed regarding the rust issue.
06-23-2005, 12:25 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
The better question is. If the fluid never absorbs water, how would it rust??
I think he's referring to other brake fluids make you change it often as they absorb more water. Thus always having newer fluid in. But he's reasoning is flawed regarding the rust issue.
I think he's referring to other brake fluids make you change it often as they absorb more water. Thus always having newer fluid in. But he's reasoning is flawed regarding the rust issue.
06-23-2005, 12:46 PM
#13
Well assuming he's using Dot3,4 or 5.5, it will absorb water. Unless you are refering to the all silicone dot 5, which is a no no
And as long as the additives on the fluid are new, it's not a problem. But as the fluid gets old, the additives wear out and can no longer prevent rust/corrision from occuring
And as long as the additives on the fluid are new, it's not a problem. But as the fluid gets old, the additives wear out and can no longer prevent rust/corrision from occuring
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
If the fluid didn't absorb water, then the water would form a second liquid phase in your brake lines, and that aqueous phase would probably be more apt to cause rust formation than if the water were absorbed into the brake fluid itself.
06-23-2005, 09:05 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
If the fluid didn't absorb water, then the water would form a second liquid phase in your brake lines, and that aqueous phase would probably be more apt to cause rust formation than if the water were absorbed into the brake fluid itself.
Thats what i meant, sorry for the confusion.
06-23-2005, 09:43 PM
#15
hard and fast numbers, so people can stop pissing in the wind:
Wagner 21B DOT 3
Dry, 401 F
no data on wet
Wagner ABS Blend DOT 4
"exceeds DOT 4 standard of 446 F"
Castrol GT-LMA DOT 3/4
Dry, 446 F
Wet, 311 F
Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4
Dry, 480 F
wet, 330F
Wagner Severe Duty DOT 5.1
Dry, "over 500 F"
AP Racing AP551 DOT 3
Dry, 527 F
Wet, 302 F
AP Racing DOT 5.1 fluid
Dry, 527 F
Wet, 363 F
(non-silicone based. WILL mix with dOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids)
ATE Superblue DOT3/4
Dry, 536 F
wet, 392 F
AP Racing AP550 "exceeds DOT standards"
Dry 550 F
no data on wet.
Ferodo Formula Racing - DSF 050A DOT 5.1
Dry, 572 F
"WARNING: FERODO FORMULA RACING IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR NORMAL ROAD USE."
AP Racing AP600 (no info on DOT certification)
Dry, 590 F
Wet, 410 F
NOT suitable for systems with magnesium parts. chemically reacts with magnesium to produce gas. All old fluid must be purged from system and then system flushed with AP600 before being filled completely and bled.
Motul RBF 600 DOT 3/4
Dry, 594 F
Wet, 421 F
Castrol SRF DOT 3/4
Dry, 590 F
Wet, 518 F
AP Racing PRF660 DOT 4
Dry, 608 F
Wet, 390 F
NOT suitable for systems with magnesium parts. chemically reacts with magnesium to produce gas. All old fluid must be purged from system and then system flushed with AP600 before being filled completely and bled.
Prospeed GS610 DOT 4
Dry, 610 F
Wet, 421 F
Sources:
http://www.apracing.com/car/brakefluid/dataselect.asp
http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com/access/fluid.asp
http://www.saferacer.com/gsrabrfl.html
http://www.federal-mogul.com/vgn/ima...ageback.OL.pdf
also have several bottles of various brands on hand to read the labels.
Wagner 21B DOT 3
Dry, 401 F
no data on wet
Wagner ABS Blend DOT 4
"exceeds DOT 4 standard of 446 F"
Castrol GT-LMA DOT 3/4
Dry, 446 F
Wet, 311 F
Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4
Dry, 480 F
wet, 330F
Wagner Severe Duty DOT 5.1
Dry, "over 500 F"
AP Racing AP551 DOT 3
Dry, 527 F
Wet, 302 F
AP Racing DOT 5.1 fluid
Dry, 527 F
Wet, 363 F
(non-silicone based. WILL mix with dOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids)
ATE Superblue DOT3/4
Dry, 536 F
wet, 392 F
AP Racing AP550 "exceeds DOT standards"
Dry 550 F
no data on wet.
Ferodo Formula Racing - DSF 050A DOT 5.1
Dry, 572 F
"WARNING: FERODO FORMULA RACING IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR NORMAL ROAD USE."
AP Racing AP600 (no info on DOT certification)
Dry, 590 F
Wet, 410 F
NOT suitable for systems with magnesium parts. chemically reacts with magnesium to produce gas. All old fluid must be purged from system and then system flushed with AP600 before being filled completely and bled.
Motul RBF 600 DOT 3/4
Dry, 594 F
Wet, 421 F
Castrol SRF DOT 3/4
Dry, 590 F
Wet, 518 F
AP Racing PRF660 DOT 4
Dry, 608 F
Wet, 390 F
NOT suitable for systems with magnesium parts. chemically reacts with magnesium to produce gas. All old fluid must be purged from system and then system flushed with AP600 before being filled completely and bled.
Prospeed GS610 DOT 4
Dry, 610 F
Wet, 421 F
Sources:
http://www.apracing.com/car/brakefluid/dataselect.asp
http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com/access/fluid.asp
http://www.saferacer.com/gsrabrfl.html
http://www.federal-mogul.com/vgn/ima...ageback.OL.pdf
also have several bottles of various brands on hand to read the labels.
06-23-2005, 10:18 PM
#16
Now for a translation of all those numbers..
for street driving, ANY of those fluids will be fine.
for agressive street driving, the Castrol GT-LMA would be the lowest temps I suggest.
for track use, the Castrol GT-LMA is also usually going to be fine for stock calipers and streetable pads (Axxis MM, Hawk HPS, Porterfield R4S, Bendix, Wagner, Raybestos).
for higher temp use where you start to experience pad fade on the above mentioned pads, then I suggest bumping up to the Valvoline Synthetic fluid. for any true BBK or race pad (Hawk HP+ or Black, Axxis Ultimate, Carbotech, Ferodo, Wilwood, AP, Brembo, Porterfield R4 or R4E, etc), then the minimum I suggest is the Valvoline.
I used the valvoline a couple weekends ago at TWS. My 13" wilwood setup had the brakes hot enough to turn my rotor hat mounting bolts blue and melt the wheelweights off the inside of my wheels, and I never experienced brake fade of any sort. They just kept getting better. So honestly, there's not much a Maxima can do on street tires that will need anything above the Valvoline.
If you can boil that fluid on anything but a full blown road course and NOT get arrested doing it, then I'll buy you a can of ATE superblue.
for street driving, ANY of those fluids will be fine.
for agressive street driving, the Castrol GT-LMA would be the lowest temps I suggest.
for track use, the Castrol GT-LMA is also usually going to be fine for stock calipers and streetable pads (Axxis MM, Hawk HPS, Porterfield R4S, Bendix, Wagner, Raybestos).
for higher temp use where you start to experience pad fade on the above mentioned pads, then I suggest bumping up to the Valvoline Synthetic fluid. for any true BBK or race pad (Hawk HP+ or Black, Axxis Ultimate, Carbotech, Ferodo, Wilwood, AP, Brembo, Porterfield R4 or R4E, etc), then the minimum I suggest is the Valvoline.
I used the valvoline a couple weekends ago at TWS. My 13" wilwood setup had the brakes hot enough to turn my rotor hat mounting bolts blue and melt the wheelweights off the inside of my wheels, and I never experienced brake fade of any sort. They just kept getting better. So honestly, there's not much a Maxima can do on street tires that will need anything above the Valvoline.
If you can boil that fluid on anything but a full blown road course and NOT get arrested doing it, then I'll buy you a can of ATE superblue.
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