Steering wheel shakes when braking - not rotors
#1
Steering wheel shakes when braking - not rotors
Need help. I did all of the google and yahoo searches and got no hits on my particular problem.
The issue is the steering wheel vibrates like crazy only during high speed (50mph and over) braking. Absolutely no brake pedal pulsing like you normally feel with warped rotors. For grins; here’s what I’ve done:
• Road force balanced all wheels, they are perfect, no high speed vibration when cruising. No help.
• Swapped back wheels to front. No help.
• Replace front rotors and pads with Jason’s group buy deal. No help. I was shocked as I thought this would resolve it.
Car is 2002 Max SE with 33K on it, stock wheels and Conti Extremes in good shape. Car was owned by me since day one and has never hit pot holes or curbs to bend a wheel. Tracks true and straight. Problem started about 3000 miles ago.
I’m starting to think wheel bearings, but I pulled on the wheels to check wheel bearings and they seem tight.
What else?
The issue is the steering wheel vibrates like crazy only during high speed (50mph and over) braking. Absolutely no brake pedal pulsing like you normally feel with warped rotors. For grins; here’s what I’ve done:
• Road force balanced all wheels, they are perfect, no high speed vibration when cruising. No help.
• Swapped back wheels to front. No help.
• Replace front rotors and pads with Jason’s group buy deal. No help. I was shocked as I thought this would resolve it.
Car is 2002 Max SE with 33K on it, stock wheels and Conti Extremes in good shape. Car was owned by me since day one and has never hit pot holes or curbs to bend a wheel. Tracks true and straight. Problem started about 3000 miles ago.
I’m starting to think wheel bearings, but I pulled on the wheels to check wheel bearings and they seem tight.
What else?
#5
That's weird.
Do you hear humming noise at higher speeds?? Bad bearing could cause it.
If it only occurs during breaking my guess is break components.
Get your rotors check with an indicator to see if they spin true.
How is your alignment?? It could also cause vibrations during breaking.
Do you hear humming noise at higher speeds?? Bad bearing could cause it.
If it only occurs during breaking my guess is break components.
Get your rotors check with an indicator to see if they spin true.
How is your alignment?? It could also cause vibrations during breaking.
#6
Shims? I hadn't thought of that. I did retain the old ones as they looked OK and I always use "Disc Brake Quiet" on the back. Maybe I'll get new ones.
Alignment is straight and true. Maybe I'll see if I can find my dial indicator and check for runout on the new rotors. Maybe the new ones aren't right either.
Alignment is straight and true. Maybe I'll see if I can find my dial indicator and check for runout on the new rotors. Maybe the new ones aren't right either.
#10
i have same problem and i also hear a hum sound at high speeds. I'm guessing bearings are the issue if not rotors for me except i cant turn left or right to escape the sound like i could on my 97 max when it had bad bearing in the driver rear wheel.
#11
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Dude i think this is simple answer you got air in you brake lines bleed thebrakes and see if that help, also did you just do the brake job, if you did let the brakes set in for little bit like atleast 2 weeks. If it doesnt stop by then the get your brakes bled, its most likely you have air in your brake lines because your not haveing even fluid distibution to calipers, hope this helps.
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If i had four hands i'd give those tities four thumbs down!!!
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If i had four hands i'd give those tities four thumbs down!!!
#12
my 2000 se vibrates the same way. i just put on new wheels and tires, so i thought it had to be the rotors. when im at 30 mph i can engage the e-brake lightly and slow down smoothly, but if i hit the brakes at 30 my car vibrates like crazy.
#13
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Originally Posted by neroup5
my 2000 se vibrates the same way. i just put on new wheels and tires, so i thought it had to be the rotors. when im at 30 mph i can engage the e-brake lightly and slow down smoothly, but if i hit the brakes at 30 my car vibrates like crazy.
LOL, your in the same boat as me we both need knew rotors and pads
#14
I've had the same problem with mine and i went to the Nissan Dealer and he gave me new disks and new pads and i replaced it and the car is fine now. I brake from a 100mph to 40mph really fast and their is no problem no sounds no steering wheel shaking. I think the brakes that the nissan dealer has for the 02 and 03 maxima the are really good.
#15
Thanks Rob01ski for the ideas: I'll try bleeding them tonight. I bled the rears as I had to really squeeze the piston back in to get the the pads around the new rotor, so I had to open the bleed valve, but the fronts pushed in much easier. Maybe they pushed in easier because they have air in them?
#17
Originally Posted by Net Doctor
Thanks Rob01ski for the ideas: I'll try bleeding them tonight. I bled the rears as I had to really squeeze the piston back in to get the the pads around the new rotor, so I had to open the bleed valve, but the fronts pushed in much easier. Maybe they pushed in easier because they have air in them?
#19
I didn't get around to it last night. Replacing pads and rotors should do it, but did not for me, that's why I'm fishing for help. I also have a dial caliper, so I'm going to give that a shot and see if there's side to side movement or something. Maybe I have some rust between the hub and the new rotor or some dirt. I just can't believe the new rotors didn't fix it unless I got a bad one.
#20
To all the guys that replaced the rotors and pads my question to you is how long will that resolve the issue? I have had the front rotors cut 3 times, and replaced twice, once with after market (brembo) rotors and the issue just comes back over time. I am looking for the real fix.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....54#post4086754
I will try bleeding mine tonight to see what that does, but I don't hold out much hope as the issue goes away with new rotors....
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....54#post4086754
I will try bleeding mine tonight to see what that does, but I don't hold out much hope as the issue goes away with new rotors....
#21
I think you need to look at this as a maintenance item; when they start acting up you, cut them or replace them, just like you would do with pads. I just think it's a fact of life with these cars. OR you do Matt's BBK.
As I said earlier in my post I'm puzzled that my RTP rotor and PBR Ultimate swap didn't solve my problem.
My history:
12K - dealer cut the rotors... fixed
25K - I replaced with Brembo blanks and Metal Masters... fixed, but only lasted 5K miles
33K - replaced with RTP rotors and Ultimates... NOT fixed???
As I said earlier in my post I'm puzzled that my RTP rotor and PBR Ultimate swap didn't solve my problem.
My history:
12K - dealer cut the rotors... fixed
25K - I replaced with Brembo blanks and Metal Masters... fixed, but only lasted 5K miles
33K - replaced with RTP rotors and Ultimates... NOT fixed???
#22
If the steering wheel shakes only when braking and u have no other untoward symptoms like a thrumming noise (wheel bearings) or other definite suspension problem like a bad tie rod, ball joint, etc, the shaking is caused by warped, contaminated or out-of-plane rotors, period. This cannot be caused by air in the lines.
If new rotors dont fix the problem, then you most likely have a warped hub flange that's causing the rotors to 'wobble' radially so that it feels like the rotor is warped, but it's not...it's being forced to wobble by the warped axle flange/face.
If the axle flange/face is warped, that was most likely caused by over-torqueing the wheels and -other than replacing the whole hub assembly- the only way to fix the brake problem is to have the new rotors turned on an in-car brake lathe, which turns/trues the rotors while they are still amounted on the car, meaning, the brake lathe will correct the axial warpage caused by the warped axle flange.
So, if your prior 'off-the-car' brake rotor turning and/or new, fresh rotors have not cured the shaking, buy some new rotors and have them mounted and trued using an on-car lathe...that will fix the shaking.
And yes, I know brakes
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/698776/1
If new rotors dont fix the problem, then you most likely have a warped hub flange that's causing the rotors to 'wobble' radially so that it feels like the rotor is warped, but it's not...it's being forced to wobble by the warped axle flange/face.
If the axle flange/face is warped, that was most likely caused by over-torqueing the wheels and -other than replacing the whole hub assembly- the only way to fix the brake problem is to have the new rotors turned on an in-car brake lathe, which turns/trues the rotors while they are still amounted on the car, meaning, the brake lathe will correct the axial warpage caused by the warped axle flange.
So, if your prior 'off-the-car' brake rotor turning and/or new, fresh rotors have not cured the shaking, buy some new rotors and have them mounted and trued using an on-car lathe...that will fix the shaking.
And yes, I know brakes
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/698776/1
#23
Thanks for the great explanation. Since the Brembos only lasted 5K and the new RTP's have not solved it, I was looking for help as to what else it could be. Like I said before, I'm going to try the dial caliper to check runout and possible check the hub flange mounting surface to make sure it's clean. I think the bearings are tight and I don't hear thrumming.
By the way, how much are the Wilwoods and do the bolt right up?
By the way, how much are the Wilwoods and do the bolt right up?
#25
Originally Posted by Net Doctor
Like I said before, I'm going to try the dial caliper to check runout and possible check the hub flange mounting surface to make sure it's clean. I think the bearings are tight and I don't hear thrumming.
By the way, how much are the Wilwoods and do the bolt right up?
By the way, how much are the Wilwoods and do the bolt right up?
I actually helped design that Precision Brakes/Wilwood kit, performing all the original measurements and offset calculations and as a result Precision Brakes gave me a good deal on the pieces and yes, it does bolt on perfectly but wont clear stock 17" wheels. All the original measurements and offsets were for a 12.9" x 1.25" rotor which was really too big as it required grinding away part of the lower A-Arm as I had to do with my car but subsequently, Wilwood introduced a slightly thinner rotor (1.1") which fits much better w/no A-arm grinding required.
Dont quote me but I think the kit is up around $1.5k right now....them two-piece rotors are pricey. Call Jonas at Precision Brakes (precisionbrakes.com) for a quote & tell him I sent you
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