need help on 1990 maxima-won't start
02-08-2005, 06:57 PM
#1
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need help on 1990 maxima-won't start
I have been given a 1990 Nissan Maxima with 137000 miles that will not start. I am trying to isolate the problem and would appreciate the help of any and all. I am a fairly ignorant, but adventuresome novice. My experience with cars is mainly keeping my 1985 Toyaota Camry (249000 miles) running. I am pretty good at repair, but troubleshooting is not my strong point.
It's an SE--VG30E SOHC V6, manual transmission.
This is what I know:
The car had been running fine. It died abruptly and has not been started since.
The starter cranks the engine fine, but there is no firing whatsoever.
The person from whom I received the car suspected that there was no ignition, and checked out a number of things prior to giving it to me, but at the time said he suspected the ECU.
Since I have had the car I have done the following:
1. I have tried to read the codes on the ECU, but cannot get any lights at all. I tried to follow the procedure to put it into Mode 3, but I get no flashing lights at all.
2. I listened for both fuel pump and injectors with the ignition turned on and can hear nothing. I ohmed the fuel pump relay and it seemed OK.
3. I followed Diagnostic Procedure 22-Main power supply and ground circuit on p. 4-51 of the Chilton manual with following results:
(A) voltage between ECU harness terminal 16 and ground is supposed to yield 1 V--I got 12V.
(B) voltage between terminals 49/59 and ground is supposed to read 12V, but I got nothing.
(C) the harness continuity between the SMJ (does anyone know what SMJ stands for?) connector and the battery was OK.
(C) I checked the ECCS relay--both by ohming the lugs and by applying voltage to make sure it worked. It was fine. I checked the fusible link, which was also fine. The book then says to check out joint connectors E50 & E52, but I have been unable to locate either.
My questions:
Am I barking up the wrong tree here? Is there another, perhaps more likely problem?
Does the ECU control the fuel pump, injectors, etc.; is it possible that the fuel pump not running is attributable to the ECU malfunctioning?
If I get no lights at all at the ECU, does that necessarily mean that it is bad? Is there another way to test the ECU?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks, I would really appreciate any help you could give.
It's an SE--VG30E SOHC V6, manual transmission.
This is what I know:
The car had been running fine. It died abruptly and has not been started since.
The starter cranks the engine fine, but there is no firing whatsoever.
The person from whom I received the car suspected that there was no ignition, and checked out a number of things prior to giving it to me, but at the time said he suspected the ECU.
Since I have had the car I have done the following:
1. I have tried to read the codes on the ECU, but cannot get any lights at all. I tried to follow the procedure to put it into Mode 3, but I get no flashing lights at all.
2. I listened for both fuel pump and injectors with the ignition turned on and can hear nothing. I ohmed the fuel pump relay and it seemed OK.
3. I followed Diagnostic Procedure 22-Main power supply and ground circuit on p. 4-51 of the Chilton manual with following results:
(A) voltage between ECU harness terminal 16 and ground is supposed to yield 1 V--I got 12V.
(B) voltage between terminals 49/59 and ground is supposed to read 12V, but I got nothing.
(C) the harness continuity between the SMJ (does anyone know what SMJ stands for?) connector and the battery was OK.
(C) I checked the ECCS relay--both by ohming the lugs and by applying voltage to make sure it worked. It was fine. I checked the fusible link, which was also fine. The book then says to check out joint connectors E50 & E52, but I have been unable to locate either.
My questions:
Am I barking up the wrong tree here? Is there another, perhaps more likely problem?
Does the ECU control the fuel pump, injectors, etc.; is it possible that the fuel pump not running is attributable to the ECU malfunctioning?
If I get no lights at all at the ECU, does that necessarily mean that it is bad? Is there another way to test the ECU?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks, I would really appreciate any help you could give.
02-08-2005, 07:22 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 209
the problem you describe sounds like what happened to my max. What ended up being the problem was the coolant sensor which in turn damaged the ECU. The computer would think that the engine was still cold(when in fact it was at the proper temperature) and kept pumping too much fuel into the engine. This caused it to crank and vibrate the car severely but didnt complete the spark or start. The fuel pump, distributor, rotor were not causing the problem. Hope this helps and good luck.
02-08-2005, 07:34 PM
#5
Originally Posted by El Barto
These cars seem to have alternator problems, I would take a look at that. Mine did the same thing last year and the alternator was the problem.
I think you should try a new battery and do your stock grounds over. Or you can upgrade your grounds.
02-09-2005, 01:13 AM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by oldcarman
- died abruptly and has not been started since.
- no firing whatsoever.
- he suspected the ECU.
- ECU, ...any lights at all.
- fuel pump and injectors with the ignition ... hear nothing.
- checked the ECCS relay
- fusible link was also fine.
Does the ECU control the fuel pump, injectors, etc.; is it possible that the fuel pump not running is attributable to the ECU malfunctioning?
If I get no lights at all at the ECU, does that necessarily mean that it is bad? Is there another way to test the ECU?
Any other suggestions?
- no firing whatsoever.
- he suspected the ECU.
- ECU, ...any lights at all.
- fuel pump and injectors with the ignition ... hear nothing.
- checked the ECCS relay
- fusible link was also fine.
Does the ECU control the fuel pump, injectors, etc.; is it possible that the fuel pump not running is attributable to the ECU malfunctioning?
If I get no lights at all at the ECU, does that necessarily mean that it is bad? Is there another way to test the ECU?
Any other suggestions?
If ECU *leds* do not function, ECU is dead or +12V pwr supply to it is missing.
--->test pwr supply wire at ECU.
ECU is alive -theory; and only IGN problem, try this: Take distributor assy off and rotate it while ing ON. The injectors should clikck, they are supplied from ECU pwr transistors. If click, ECU is most probably ok.
Get another ECU from junkyard, but make sure it is same as you have; I suppose there are many versions that will not work on u model.
Its known that heater core leak will fry the ECU.
***--->Do not take the chiltons crap manual data or its abbreviations too seriously, that will create mental problems... U need Nissan FSM, which also has errors as any text... Situation is always like this because the documentation person seldom has hands on experience, and thus the text he types is second hand knowledge. And those who develop the thingies, could not care less of the info that end user is given. Happen to know THAT business. Like THE prog-rammers who think heavenly of themselves...
- The other possibilities:
ECU controlled fuel pump might be hardwired, but that does not help if ECU is dead.
Ign circ contains also condenser, pwr transistor beside the coil, but replacement will not help if ECU is dead.
For some electronics ideas on maxima, read this:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
.
02-12-2005, 10:26 AM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2
An update and more questions
OK--I've tried several things:
It's not the timing belt. Cranking the engine definitely turns the rotor.
I cannot hear the injectors clicking when the engine is turned. Granted, I don't exactly know what I'm listening for, but I don't hear anything other than the noise of the starter turning the engine.
At this point, I'm willing to assume that it is the ECU, but I have several questions.
1. I am not getting 12V to the ECU where the Chilton book says I'm supposed to. I checked the voltage between the terminals on the harness connector (the female side of the connector) and ground, and got the results mentioned above. The procedure is not very clear in the book. It says that if this step is no good, then check the harness continuity between the ECU and the battery, which I did and it was OK. So far everything I have checked in steps 2 & 3 have checked out OK. So, what could be the problem that I am seeing when I check the voltage to the ECU?
2. Wiking mentioned that "It is known that heater core leak will fry the ECU." Pardon my ignorance, but what is heater core leak. The heater core is the main heater unit under the dash? How and what does it leak? If mine leaks, and I put a new ECU in, I presume it will destroy the new one as well?
3. If I get an ECU from the junkyard, can I know for certain that it is good? Is this a good risk? Would I be better of to buy a refurb unit (which I have heard you can get for <$300) on the understanding that it is known good and will not fail prematurely?
4. How do I make certain I get the right ECU? Can a Nissan dealer match the VIN to the correct model ECU?
Thanks to all for your excellent help.
It's not the timing belt. Cranking the engine definitely turns the rotor.
I cannot hear the injectors clicking when the engine is turned. Granted, I don't exactly know what I'm listening for, but I don't hear anything other than the noise of the starter turning the engine.
At this point, I'm willing to assume that it is the ECU, but I have several questions.
1. I am not getting 12V to the ECU where the Chilton book says I'm supposed to. I checked the voltage between the terminals on the harness connector (the female side of the connector) and ground, and got the results mentioned above. The procedure is not very clear in the book. It says that if this step is no good, then check the harness continuity between the ECU and the battery, which I did and it was OK. So far everything I have checked in steps 2 & 3 have checked out OK. So, what could be the problem that I am seeing when I check the voltage to the ECU?
2. Wiking mentioned that "It is known that heater core leak will fry the ECU." Pardon my ignorance, but what is heater core leak. The heater core is the main heater unit under the dash? How and what does it leak? If mine leaks, and I put a new ECU in, I presume it will destroy the new one as well?
3. If I get an ECU from the junkyard, can I know for certain that it is good? Is this a good risk? Would I be better of to buy a refurb unit (which I have heard you can get for <$300) on the understanding that it is known good and will not fail prematurely?
4. How do I make certain I get the right ECU? Can a Nissan dealer match the VIN to the correct model ECU?
Thanks to all for your excellent help.
02-12-2005, 10:59 AM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 248
just becuase the main pully turns dont mean your belt is ok, the starter cranks the fly wheel so makes it turn. To check for spark Take one of the Plugs out with the Spark plug still attached and have some on crank(start) the car. While the spark plug is near a ground a blue spark should come from the spark plug to the place you used for the ground. That way you should know if the spark plug is working.
To check and see if your pump is working get a longer hose conected to the outgoing side of the fuel filter. Put the end of the new longer hose into a sprite or Soft drink clear bottle. and have some one crank the engine. Fuel should spray into the bottle and you would know if your pump is working.
So check for spark and fuel if both are there check to see if there is air going to the engine. AFM might be cloged. Try disconecting the tube that goes to the AFM so it sucks in air directly to the engine (only if spark and fuel are present)
Dont go to a pick a part, go to a local junk yard that pulls the working ecu out of the car, usualy they will have them behind the counter, and buy from them. Hope this helps
To check and see if your pump is working get a longer hose conected to the outgoing side of the fuel filter. Put the end of the new longer hose into a sprite or Soft drink clear bottle. and have some one crank the engine. Fuel should spray into the bottle and you would know if your pump is working.
So check for spark and fuel if both are there check to see if there is air going to the engine. AFM might be cloged. Try disconecting the tube that goes to the AFM so it sucks in air directly to the engine (only if spark and fuel are present)
Dont go to a pick a part, go to a local junk yard that pulls the working ecu out of the car, usualy they will have them behind the counter, and buy from them. Hope this helps
02-12-2005, 04:43 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 24
i'm having a similar probelem...
I left work but drove back from 5 minutes away because I forgot something. Went back to my car and it wouldn't start. The engine was turning fine.
History: The car sat for about a year before I had the timing belt and spark plugs changed in 1/05. During that year, I started it every month. I drove it daily for about 3 weeks before it died.
I towed it back to the mechanic that did the timing belt and spark plugs. He said it was able to start and drive fine the next day.
Other bugs: 2 or 3 days before it died, I noticed that the car would RANDOMLY idle at 1900 RPM when I come to a stop or put the car in neutral. I must emphasize RANDOMLY because it didn't do it everytime but it did do it at least 2 or 3 times of every drive. Sometimes, at a stop, it would idle normally.
I checked the throttle to make sure it wasn't sticking and also made sure it wasn't my floor mats, either. My guess would be like what someone else on the board mentioning the coolant temp sensor. It's as if the car doesn't know the engine is at operating temperature and it's trying to warm up the engine by revving it higher.
History: The car sat for about a year before I had the timing belt and spark plugs changed in 1/05. During that year, I started it every month. I drove it daily for about 3 weeks before it died.
I towed it back to the mechanic that did the timing belt and spark plugs. He said it was able to start and drive fine the next day.
Other bugs: 2 or 3 days before it died, I noticed that the car would RANDOMLY idle at 1900 RPM when I come to a stop or put the car in neutral. I must emphasize RANDOMLY because it didn't do it everytime but it did do it at least 2 or 3 times of every drive. Sometimes, at a stop, it would idle normally.
I checked the throttle to make sure it wasn't sticking and also made sure it wasn't my floor mats, either. My guess would be like what someone else on the board mentioning the coolant temp sensor. It's as if the car doesn't know the engine is at operating temperature and it's trying to warm up the engine by revving it higher.
05-12-2005, 05:49 PM
#12
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2
help
im have'n the same exact problems with my 91 maxima.. took it to the dealership to have them look at it and they told me it was my computer.. they want'd 800$ bucks for new puter... so i went to the local junkyards.. found a couple computer but none of the numbers match'd my old computer.. and none of them work'd... so ive been look'ng to buy one from jcwhitney's..... in the description they say the begining vin should be VG30E.... mine isn't.. don't no what 2 do.. can't find my puter anywhere..
05-13-2005, 01:10 AM
#13
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Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by rabbiwhitey
im have'n the same exact problems with my 91 maxima.. ...
What is : "the same exact problems..."??
Dont blindly trust stealership diag; maybe its smtg else.
ECU needs batt voltage
and swapping will not help in that. Maybe bad ign sw? Other fuse/wiring/grounding problem? --- ECU gets its pwr via fusible links (beside batt), ign sw and a fuse. Check for manual and schema; www.autozone.com - or for links on my first page.DIY selftests first: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15
There is a Nissan TSB for ECU numbers. List for all ECU's is in Nissan TSB NTB93-167.pdf, Connector installation: check Nissan TSB NTB94-065.pdf
TSB's see for http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb
05-13-2005, 06:47 AM
#14
Originally Posted by rabbiwhitey
im have'n the same exact problems with my 91 maxima.. took it to the dealership to have them look at it and they told me it was my computer.. they want'd 800$ bucks for new puter... so i went to the local junkyards.. found a couple computer but none of the numbers match'd my old computer.. and none of them work'd... so ive been look'ng to buy one from jcwhitney's..... in the description they say the begining vin should be VG30E.... mine isn't.. don't no what 2 do.. can't find my puter anywhere..
what # is on your old computer?
05-13-2005, 11:16 AM
#20
Originally Posted by LuckyNYC
Do our 3rd gens have that same feature. It would be a nice thing to have.
of course i don't have an oil pressure problem on this car
05-13-2005, 11:08 PM
#22
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Well, at least oldcarman did give very accurate descriptions of his problem and what he tried to do to fix it. If I was in the same situation, I would try what wiking suggested. Oh, by the way, SMJ = Super Multiple Junction. Whatever you find, please post solution to let all know.
Whatever you find, please post solution to let all know.
05-14-2005, 12:28 AM
#23
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Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by LuckyNYC
Do our 3rd gens have that same feature. It would be a nice thing to have.
Dont do that, but buy 20$ oil press gauge, so you will KNOW. After u know, u are the hidalgo, u may decide whattodo/nottodo: I dont like relays deciding for me... even less the complicators.
05-22-2005, 10:11 AM
#25
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was wondering if a computer from a 90 maxima will work in a 91 maxima..
the computer number out of my maxima is A18-A82 EA0 if anyone has one for sale email me rabbiwhitey@Hotmail.com
the computer number out of my maxima is A18-A82 EA0 if anyone has one for sale email me rabbiwhitey@Hotmail.com
05-22-2005, 10:22 AM
#26
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I have a 1989 SE that is having the exact same issue. The eng cont (10 amp fuse right under the 20 amp wiper fuse on the right stack) fuse blows as soon as i touch the throttle or clutch - which acts like a wiring short - but i can not find one. I spent some unecessary dollars and lots of time figuring out that the no fuel/no spark condition was caused by a .50 fuse - but now i can not get to the next step to determine what is causing the fuse to blow - help me Obi Won
05-22-2005, 10:36 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by jimmyjam
... The eng cont (10 amp fuse right under the 20 amp wiper fuse on the right stack) fuse blows as soon as i touch the throttle or clutch - ....
I suppose engine is running and u either brake or give throttle, fuse blows, engine dies?
These two circuits are separate, so I guess only some kind of meltdown and wiring short can have such effect.
U have to open dash panel below steering wheel and inspect harnesses, open the SMJ's in the far left corner (PITA). Before that check fuses, relays under hood, beside batt. Clic:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/5
07-28-2005, 06:14 PM
#28
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H.e.l.p.
Some1 H.E.L.P. please... I have a 92 MAX SE that I am in love with and my baby is sick. Drivin to casino and lights made a bright flash then car died. I popped the hood and saw that battery was cracked, split, and smokin. Replaced batt. and alternator and now blowin the electronic start fuse when the switch is moved to start position and no headlights, no fog lights, but i got park lights. I've done all that i know. PLEASE HELP ! ! !
07-28-2005, 07:01 PM
#29
Originally Posted by scutdaddy
Some1 H.E.L.P. please... I have a 92 MAX SE that I am in love with and my baby is sick. Drivin to casino and lights made a bright flash then car died. I popped the hood and saw that battery was cracked, split, and smokin. Replaced batt. and alternator and now blowin the electronic start fuse when the switch is moved to start position and no headlights, no fog lights, but i got park lights. I've done all that i know. PLEASE HELP ! ! !
09-24-2010, 08:11 PM
#31
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Can someone help me. I have a 1992 maxima gxe that won't start. It was running on day (rough) but running and it won't. I have changed the fuel pump, did a tune up, and changed fuel filter. New injectors as well but all it does is turn over but won't start. What could be the problem? Please help!!
09-24-2010, 10:00 PM
#32
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Location: Washington
Posts: 110
Can someone help me. I have a 1992 maxima gxe that won't start. It was running on day (rough) but running and it won't. I have changed the fuel pump, did a tune up, and changed fuel filter. New injectors as well but all it does is turn over but won't start. What could be the problem? Please help!!
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