Whats the best place to ground amp in the trunk?
#1
Whats the best place to ground amp in the trunk?
Hey guys, I know this question was probably asked so much, but I just need to know, because the damn alternator whine is annoying.
Well, I mounted my amplifier to the back of my backseat, you can see that the amp from the inside the trunk, its mounted right onto the back of the backseat.
I grounded the amp using a bolt that is used to, I believe hold down the back seats, so I unbolted the bolt then grinded away the grey paint. I thought this particular ground, along with the grinding-of the paint, is a really good particular grounding spot, but when I turn the gains up on the amp, and rev the engine, alternator whine is so evident that its annoying.
Now, I am willing to do whatever it takes to completely remove the alternator whine, and the first thing I am concerned about is finding a suitable grounding spot, the best possible grounding spot. Where would this be?
Also, what is the procedure on adding more grounds? What I mean is, using the negative terminal on the battery and attaching it to the car's chassis using 4 gauge wire. How many wires do I need when doing this, should I add 2 more ground wires from the car's negative terminal on the battery to the chassis? And where would be the best place near the battery to add the wire to the body?
And finally, would getting a ground loop isolator really help me out on the alternator whine situation? I really want to remove the whine, so would investing my money into ground loop isolators really help remove the alternator whine?
Please help me, I really hate the damn whine...
Well, I mounted my amplifier to the back of my backseat, you can see that the amp from the inside the trunk, its mounted right onto the back of the backseat.
I grounded the amp using a bolt that is used to, I believe hold down the back seats, so I unbolted the bolt then grinded away the grey paint. I thought this particular ground, along with the grinding-of the paint, is a really good particular grounding spot, but when I turn the gains up on the amp, and rev the engine, alternator whine is so evident that its annoying.
Now, I am willing to do whatever it takes to completely remove the alternator whine, and the first thing I am concerned about is finding a suitable grounding spot, the best possible grounding spot. Where would this be?
Also, what is the procedure on adding more grounds? What I mean is, using the negative terminal on the battery and attaching it to the car's chassis using 4 gauge wire. How many wires do I need when doing this, should I add 2 more ground wires from the car's negative terminal on the battery to the chassis? And where would be the best place near the battery to add the wire to the body?
And finally, would getting a ground loop isolator really help me out on the alternator whine situation? I really want to remove the whine, so would investing my money into ground loop isolators really help remove the alternator whine?
Please help me, I really hate the damn whine...
#5
where ever you decide to ground it, make sure the grounding area is free of paint. i sanded my grounding point to bare metal, then attatched the ground. this will greatly reduced the odds of getting noise into your system.
#8
Originally Posted by AscendantMax
where ever you decide to ground it, make sure the grounding area is free of paint. i sanded my grounding point to bare metal, then attatched the ground. this will greatly reduced the odds of getting noise into your system.
#10
they're suggesting running a cable from a rear strut bolt to your amp. I'd reccomend drilling a 3/8" hole in your spare tire well, scrape all the paint away from around it on the inside, smear bulb grease on it, stick a 3/8" BRASS bolt or machine screw through the hole (from the bottom), tighten 1 nut down against the body, drop your cable with the ring terminal down on it, and tighten another nut down. This will give you a superb ground.
As for adding battery to chassis grounds, I need to know if your battery has both top and side posts or just top posts so I can save myself a buncha typing.
As for adding battery to chassis grounds, I need to know if your battery has both top and side posts or just top posts so I can save myself a buncha typing.
#11
Strut bolt is the best, all you need is sand paper and a wrench no drilling needed. As far as multiple amps are concerned, the rule of thumb is to use the same ground point and put the amp that draws the most current on the bottom.
#13
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If you follow your tire up into your trunk youll notice that you have to remove some of the interior from either the left or right side, depending on which side the ground is closer to on the amp. You then take off the interior on that side and youll notice 3bolts (i think). It should be right above your wheel inside the trunk. Then take one of the bolts off and sand it down and put the ring terminal through it and screw the bolt back on the the apropriate tq i think its like 28 +/-1 and you should be all set. Hook it back up to your ground and your all set...BUMPITY BUMP BUMP!!!
#14
I've been told by Don that the strut is a bad place to ground. Just do the drill a hole n use a bolt/nut combo trick and that may help.
I, as well have done the strut ground, drill a hole and use a bolt/nut combo for a ground, and still cannot get rid of this alternator whine bullSH!T! and yes I did sand the paint off to bare metal for each of these grounds.
I, as well have done the strut ground, drill a hole and use a bolt/nut combo for a ground, and still cannot get rid of this alternator whine bullSH!T! and yes I did sand the paint off to bare metal for each of these grounds.
#15
imo grounding to the strut is a bad idea..its too far away from the amp most of the time, and if you add additional body grounding from the battery, a body ground is far better if done properly. If all else fails, GROUND THE HELL OUTTA IT. run a bigger ground to the engine common ground, one from the common ground to the alt chassis, a good 4 ga or heavier negative battery terminal to body. once you think you have enough grounding, add some more.
#18
This is how to do it for the 5th-gen maxs, not to sure on your fourth gen, could be the same way?
Inorder to run the 12v constant (using 4 gauge wire), The best way it to remove the front-driver side wheel, then bend or remove the wheel well cover, and you can see a big grommet leading to the firewall and interior, just pop off the grommet, run the power wire through that hole, and it leads into the car. Then just hide the wire under the interior paneling and between the seat cushions to the trunk.
Inorder to run the 12v constant (using 4 gauge wire), The best way it to remove the front-driver side wheel, then bend or remove the wheel well cover, and you can see a big grommet leading to the firewall and interior, just pop off the grommet, run the power wire through that hole, and it leads into the car. Then just hide the wire under the interior paneling and between the seat cushions to the trunk.
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