Check Engine Light blinking while driving?
#1
Check Engine Light blinking while driving?
Alright this is kinda weird...my check engine light blinks in completely random patterns while I drive. Has anyone else had this happen? I thought if you had a CEL, it just stays solid while driving-- I thought it only blinks when you put the key in the 3rd position. Any advice? Thanks-Chuck
#3
Update!
When I turn the key into the 3rd position the CEL doesn't blink- it stays solid. Isn't this normal, as every other light stays solid? Then, when I start the car up completely there is no CEL at all. Kinda weird, seeing as how I did nothing to re-set the light.
BTW I'm having acceleration problems- when RPMs go up I don't see my MPH go up in good enough proportion. Also, I usually have rough starts, my friend tells me it's all the MAF for these two problems-- so I'm getting a new mass air flow sensor and I might get a new throttle position sensor. Good idea?
When I turn the key into the 3rd position the CEL doesn't blink- it stays solid. Isn't this normal, as every other light stays solid? Then, when I start the car up completely there is no CEL at all. Kinda weird, seeing as how I did nothing to re-set the light.
BTW I'm having acceleration problems- when RPMs go up I don't see my MPH go up in good enough proportion. Also, I usually have rough starts, my friend tells me it's all the MAF for these two problems-- so I'm getting a new mass air flow sensor and I might get a new throttle position sensor. Good idea?
#8
Originally Posted by maxmiles
It sounds like a trans problem. The trans is starting in fail safe. Go drive the car and count the shifts. You should have 3 shifts/4 gears.
Is it the AT light flashing??
Is it the AT light flashing??
#9
ok, since im in a good mood and a bit trashed ill be nice and look it up. It probably a good idea to pick up a manual
the maf is tested by
checking the ground/power pins with an ohm meter
disconect the maf and attach positive lead of the meter to the red wire in the harness connector
turn the ignitoin on but dont start
the meter should show battery voltage (12-13v usually)
then backprobe the white wire on the maf connecter & ground the other lead
turn the car to on
it should indicate 1v
start the car it should read 1v-1.7v at idle and 1.7 up to 3.0 under power
the TPS is a
check charge as above
should read 5v when car on not start
attach the meter to terminal # 2 and 3 (these are the right 2 when looking at the from the outside into the TB)
should read.5k ohms throttle closed/4k ohms at WOT
the maf is tested by
checking the ground/power pins with an ohm meter
disconect the maf and attach positive lead of the meter to the red wire in the harness connector
turn the ignitoin on but dont start
the meter should show battery voltage (12-13v usually)
then backprobe the white wire on the maf connecter & ground the other lead
turn the car to on
it should indicate 1v
start the car it should read 1v-1.7v at idle and 1.7 up to 3.0 under power
the TPS is a
check charge as above
should read 5v when car on not start
attach the meter to terminal # 2 and 3 (these are the right 2 when looking at the from the outside into the TB)
should read.5k ohms throttle closed/4k ohms at WOT
#10
NO NO NO.......
A blinking signal on OBD II computers is a type A Misfire. It damages the catalyst within 100-200 miles of it happening. It blinks because it is very serious, the cat could explode under your car due to unburned gas collecting in the CAT. It is saying DONT drive me.
So dont, and get that fixed before you blow your exhaust piping.
A blinking signal on OBD II computers is a type A Misfire. It damages the catalyst within 100-200 miles of it happening. It blinks because it is very serious, the cat could explode under your car due to unburned gas collecting in the CAT. It is saying DONT drive me.
So dont, and get that fixed before you blow your exhaust piping.
#11
Originally Posted by Oblongshapes
NO NO NO.......
A blinking signal on OBD II computers is a type A Misfire. It damages the catalyst within 100-200 miles of it happening. It blinks because it is very serious, the cat could explode under your car due to unburned gas collecting in the CAT. It is saying DONT drive me.
So dont, and get that fixed before you blow your exhaust piping.
A blinking signal on OBD II computers is a type A Misfire. It damages the catalyst within 100-200 miles of it happening. It blinks because it is very serious, the cat could explode under your car due to unburned gas collecting in the CAT. It is saying DONT drive me.
So dont, and get that fixed before you blow your exhaust piping.
#12
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Before you change anything check for stored error codes in your ECU. A blinking CEL means you have a misfire. Follow the instructions here--- http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931 See what codes come out, they most likely will point twards an ignition problem, if your lucky it will identify which cylinder is at fault.
The CEL will not blink for problems with MAF, TPS, O2's, temp sensors or evap issues. It will only blink while driving, usually under a load, for ignition misfires.
The CEL will not blink for problems with MAF, TPS, O2's, temp sensors or evap issues. It will only blink while driving, usually under a load, for ignition misfires.
#13
the blinking is saying you have a misfire. just 1 or maybe more. check for codes, and start from there. it will tell you a code and match it up with the one on the stickies. cause can include
Fuel Injectors (long flat head test)
Ignition Coils (ohm them out)
Fuel Filter (just replace this)
Fuel Injectors (long flat head test)
Ignition Coils (ohm them out)
Fuel Filter (just replace this)
#14
Hey thanks for all the help, I just did the self-diagnosis.
Code 05 05- no diagnosis. Very odd. I counted the blinks many times just to make sure I had this right cuz if it was something like 06 05 that would mean I have a misfire in cylinder 4! I'll re-set it and see if anything comes back on when I drive for a bit. If nothing comes on would you say I am out of the woods?
Code 05 05- no diagnosis. Very odd. I counted the blinks many times just to make sure I had this right cuz if it was something like 06 05 that would mean I have a misfire in cylinder 4! I'll re-set it and see if anything comes back on when I drive for a bit. If nothing comes on would you say I am out of the woods?
#15
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by ChuckDaMaxRider
Hey thanks for all the help, I just did the self-diagnosis.
Code 05 05- no diagnosis. Very odd. I counted the blinks many times just to make sure I had this right cuz if it was something like 06 05 that would mean I have a misfire in cylinder 4! I'll re-set it and see if anything comes back on when I drive for a bit. If nothing comes on would you say I am out of the woods?
Code 05 05- no diagnosis. Very odd. I counted the blinks many times just to make sure I had this right cuz if it was something like 06 05 that would mean I have a misfire in cylinder 4! I'll re-set it and see if anything comes back on when I drive for a bit. If nothing comes on would you say I am out of the woods?
-matt
#16
Just happened to me too, it was a misfire on #6. At first it would just come on occasionally and blink for awhile and go off, then after like a day or two it did it again and stayed on and i started to get symptoms of misfiring. I don't think it will actually throw a code unless it comes on static eventually, and even then the code goes away if it doesn't happen after your next trip (if your problem is intermittent like mine is). But if it does come on static try to check your codes immediately that should help, if it doesn't come back on in a few days your out of the woods.
#17
Originally Posted by TonyGotSkilz
Just happened to me too, it was a misfire on #6. At first it would just come on occasionally and blink for awhile and go off, then after like a day or two it did it again and stayed on and i started to get symptoms of misfiring. I don't think it will actually throw a code unless it comes on static eventually, and even then the code goes away if it doesn't happen after your next trip (if your problem is intermittent like mine is). But if it does come on static try to check your codes immediately that should help, if it doesn't come back on in a few days your out of the woods.
#18
Originally Posted by matty
Ya....could have been some bad gas
-matt
-matt
#21
I just wanna thank EVERYONE who has posted on this. Ive had my fourth gen for three years now an I take it to car shows an win first place most of the time. I wanted to cry when I saw a "Blinking check engine light" I thought it was all over for my baby. I ran the codes using the ecu screw by the gas pedal under the dash an got my service codes saying. ( Miss fire, 02 sensor, and nok sensor) turned out being a ignition coil. I bought a kit online for only $100 came with all 6 new coils an I re set the computer with that same ecu screw an no light at all now im on 300k in my max an still goin. NISSAN is forever!
#22
I just wanna thank EVERYONE who has posted on this. Ive had my fourth gen for three years now an I take it to car shows an win first place most of the time. I wanted to cry when I saw a "Blinking check engine light" I thought it was all over for my baby. I ran the codes using the ecu screw by the gas pedal under the dash an got my service codes saying. ( Miss fire, 02 sensor, and nok sensor) turned out being a ignition coil. I bought a kit online for only $100 came with all 6 new coils an I re set the computer with that same ecu screw an no light at all now im on 300k in my max an still goin. NISSAN is forever!
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southeastern Wisconsin, East of Madison, small town of Hustisford
Posts: 23
Serious Problem with 2002 Max Please Help!
I am the proud owner of an 02 Max that has unfortunately, contracted a nasty virus... As I reach 3-3.5k rpms in 2nd gear and above, my car stops accelerating and starts to sputter/hesitates as if something was clogged or preventing it from further accelerating. It's almost like a popping, red lined sound, real nasty sounding. I put new plugs but the not wires/coils(stupid me being cheap lol), and a new fuel filter in it with no change to the problem. I have to let off the pedal slightly for it to shift/accelerate. It takes about roughly 35-40 seconds to reach 60mph. The cat is about 2yrs old and was put on with a new exhaust. I have an Injen cold air intake as well, if that would cause anything. My next guess is either the coils/wires, an old vacuum hose getting pinched at high RPMs or something cat related. It feels/sounds like it's a trans problem tho the way it stops at 3.5k rpms like a Rev limiter is kicking in or something. Any thoughts? Please help, I love my Max and don't want to see her go....
#24
I am the proud owner of an 02 Max that has unfortunately, contracted a nasty virus... As I reach 3-3.5k rpms in 2nd gear and above, my car stops accelerating and starts to sputter/hesitates as if something was clogged or preventing it from further accelerating. It's almost like a popping, red lined sound, real nasty sounding. I put new plugs but the not wires/coils(stupid me being cheap lol), and a new fuel filter in it with no change to the problem. I have to let off the pedal slightly for it to shift/accelerate. It takes about roughly 35-40 seconds to reach 60mph. The cat is about 2yrs old and was put on with a new exhaust. I have an Injen cold air intake as well, if that would cause anything. My next guess is either the coils/wires, an old vacuum hose getting pinched at high RPMs or something cat related. It feels/sounds like it's a trans problem tho the way it stops at 3.5k rpms like a Rev limiter is kicking in or something. Any thoughts? Please help, I love my Max and don't want to see her go....
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