2nd gen help

94maxteamrtv · 09-03-2009, 12:30 PM

Hello,

I am helping a friend get his 2nd gen running again. It was sitting in a garage for a few years and currently runs very poorly. It is a Black 87' manual model with 80k miles and in beautiful cosmetic shape.

Anyway when I switched out the battery and started it, it ran just ok with headlights dimming on and off and stumbling once in a while. Everything still works though except the master switch does not want to bring the passenger window back up.

Here are some things I replaced.

Wires
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Oil and filter

I also Drove out all the gas and filled it back up and threw in some fuel addative.

Replaced alternator and that fixed the headlight dimming and power issues.

The one last problem I am having is since I replaced the wires and plugs it seems to miss constantly and has less power. I think the plugs are fine but what are the chances that one of the spark plug wires were defective. It was a pain to replace all that stuff as the plugs and wires are in some tight spots. Anyway, let me know what you guys think.

vernk · 09-03-2009, 01:12 PM

If you are letting it just sit and run be sure to keep the clutch pushed in, that will help save your input shaft bearing in the tranny they do not get oil unless it is being driven, and be sure to check (change) tranny lube before driving it, and yes it is possible to have a bad wire, I would change to fuel filter and air filter, other then that call Nissan and see if it should have the injectors recalled.

94maxteamrtv · 09-03-2009, 08:19 PM

I see. These VG injectors have the same problems as the third gens

. Air Filter was changed also but forgot about fuel filter. Will change that too.

Thanks for the tranny info, not too familar with 2nd gens. I'll see if I can get a different set of wires.

alllw86 · 09-04-2009, 11:41 AM

So was there a reason why this car was garaged for a few years? 80k miles is low and this is also when a few things will need attention. Sounds like you did a complete tune-up less the fuel filter and replaced the alternator. Engine timing check? Getting a hold of a factory service manual would help a lot. (eBay)

Does the power windows move up or down on their own switches or is it just the master one that won’t work? There is a lock/unlock button on the master switch. That factory manual can help a lot here!

How does the car start when cold? Does it go into fast idle then drop to normal at 650 rpm when warmed up? The air regulator valve controls the fast idle. Mine went bad at 70k miles. Check out the sticky in this forum on fixing this valve. Buying a new one would be easiest.

The throttle body could use a cleaning now. Use a spray cleaner for this purpose. After I cleaned mine the idle ran above 1200 so I had to adjust it back down to normal.

My alternator also failed at 70k mile. The alternator light came on and the voltmeter gauge showed 12volts, should have been 14.5v.

Those spark plug cables are a pain to work on. Make sure you made a good connection to the spark plugs.

Get the engine running to your satisfaction before moving on to more work.

Timing belt due at 90k. I would check to see if the cam seals are leaking now, if not then you can wait till later. A leaking cam seal did a # on my t-belt.

If the water pump is on its last leg then the t-belt should be done at the same time.

There are probably lots of oil leaks from the valve covers, distributor seal, steering pump, hose and or steering rack.

So hope some of this is helpful, Al

vernk · 09-04-2009, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94maxteamrtv

I see. These VG injectors have the same problems as the third gens

. Air Filter was changed also but forgot about fuel filter. Will change that too.

Thanks for the tranny info, not too familar with 2nd gens. I'll see if I can get a different set of wires.

you could just check the wires with a multi meter for conductivity so you don't spend money on a whole set of wires when it could be just one or just one not pushed on all the way, what I do when I go to put them on is push the wire into the boot a bit so that you make sure that the connector is snapped on then push the boot down, does it miss all the time or just under load?

scmaxima · 09-04-2009, 11:51 PM

allw6 covered it all i think but the multiple conductivity is good

94maxteamrtv · 09-05-2009, 08:03 AM

Thanks for the help guys.
I checked the wires with a multimeter and they all seem to be off and missing at times so I believe the coil is to blame and not the wires. I tried to clean the connections on the coil and the car ran good but when it warmed up it started to miss again. I also made sure the clutch was pressed in during the idling and testing.

Changed out the fuel filter (good thing I did, the old one was filthy)

Im going to see if I can get an ignition coil and try it out and hopefully I will be done with the engine. I need to flush out the old brake fluid and fix the e-brake. Maybe find a new master window switch as well. Maybe I will also clean the throttle body if im feeling generous. I will also call Nissan and check on the fuel injector recall.

And vernk, The car was misfiring all the time not only under load.

Overall the car ran great for the 10 min it was working. Seems like it will be a fun little 5-speed when I'm done.

vernk · 09-09-2009, 03:57 PM

so hows it going? another thought if it's starts running rough after it warms up, might need a O2 sensor

94maxteamrtv · 09-09-2009, 07:31 PM

I still have not received the coil so no update as of yet. Never thought of the o2 but when I cleaned the connector for the coil, the car ran perfect for around 10 min of driving so if its not the coil I will definatly look into the o2 sensor.

Haven't touched the brakes yet either. One thing at a time

Fatty Matty · 09-24-2009, 04:09 PM

Did you check the timing after you changed the cap and rotor?

arsonist63086 · 09-24-2009, 07:09 PM

i would check the cylinder Temp sensor...

94maxteamrtv · 09-24-2009, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fatty Matty

Did you check the timing after you changed the cap and rotor?

Yes timing was good

Quote:

Originally Posted by arsonist63086

i would check the cylinder Temp sensor...

What is the cylinder temp sensor? How do I check it?

I think I have given up with this car. The coil did not solve the problem. I think I will bite the bullet and take it in to a mechanic. I am not a mechanic and I have done everything I know how to do at this point.

Maybe if I throw it back in storage it will correct itself lol.

I dunno I am frustrated with the whole thing and since I started school again, I havnt had anynore time.

vernk · 10-01-2009, 02:03 PM

oh yea be sure to check all the vacuum lines for cracks and such, when ever you get back to it

mossyoaks · 10-14-2009, 08:49 AM

I'm combining 2 1st gens for my 16y/o son to drive. Grandmas 85 wagon has electrical gremlins and won't start but found a nice 87 sedan with an iffy auto tranny that won't shift into 3rd. Ok for us around town and to school since speed limit is 45max anyway!

Problem is my front left brake caliper is sticking. So just pulled the one on the wagon (including brake hose) and same thing. After about 4 or 5 stoplights, it has tightened up and won't release till I turn the bleed screw. Then off we go.

What do you guys think the odds are that I have two 'bad' calipers (or brake hoses)?

Could this be a brake master cylinder issue?? I've flushed the fluid and bled till it's clear.

Hate to go buy a new caliper if it's the mastercyl....

arsonist63086 · 10-14-2009, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mossyoaks

I'm combining 2 1st gens for my 16y/o son to drive. Grandmas 85 wagon has electrical gremlins and won't start but found a nice 87 sedan with an iffy auto tranny that won't shift into 3rd. Ok for us around town and to school since speed limit is 45max anyway!

Problem is my front left brake caliper is sticking. So just pulled the one on the wagon (including brake hose) and same thing. After about 4 or 5 stoplights, it has tightened up and won't release till I turn the bleed screw. Then off we go.

What do you guys think the odds are that I have two 'bad' calipers (or brake hoses)?

Could this be a brake master cylinder issue?? I've flushed the fluid and bled till it's clear.

Hate to go buy a new caliper if it's the mastercyl....

if you have a parts car just swap out the master cylinder, i dont quite remember if the max's have a proportionate valve if they do find it and chang that to...

mossyoaks · 10-14-2009, 01:12 PM

Anyone else confirm or deny the proportionate valve? And would the master cylinder cause only ONE wheel cylinder to stick?

mossyoaks · 10-15-2009, 07:07 PM

First lemme say that I've been unable to start a thread on this site since joining some months ago. Can anyone tell me when I'll be able to do that?!

So I switched master cylinders and front left caliper still sticking.

So I put a new one on and still sticking.

WTF!!!

What else can I do?

chrome91 · 10-15-2009, 07:32 PM

you need at least 15 posts to be able to start new threads (spam prevention), so 11 more posts and you can start your own threads

vernk · 10-15-2009, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mossyoaks

First lemme say that I've been unable to start a thread on this site since joining some months ago. Can anyone tell me when I'll be able to do that?!

So I switched master cylinders and front left caliper still sticking.

So I put a new one on and still sticking.

WTF!!!

What else can I do?

to start I would disconnect brake line at both ends, drain, blow air though to make sure there isn't something blocking

mossyoaks · 10-16-2009, 01:17 PM

Line from mastercyl to caliper clear. I haven't replaced the flexline yet (except for swapping from 85 donor car). I'm a long-time BMW guy, keeping the old ones running, and have had brake flex lines scleros/clog. Fluid pushes through ok, but won't allow fluid to release back. I guess I could go there next?

I'm bout ready to sell the thing cheap with parts car!!