1st gen mods
01-14-2003, 02:08 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: France
Posts: 221
Swapping to a manual transmission is a first. You can use a 280ZX transmission. The non-turbo 1981-83 has the smoothest shifting feel.
Change out your rear differential to a 3.9 or 4.11 R180 or R200. I think you've got an R180 in there right now, so sticking with that will allow you to keep your current half-shafts.
Another thing is to actually add torque. Increasing your displacement to a 2.8L from the stock 2.4L will add a lot of torque. Mainly because the L28 has a longer stroke. You can keep your current head from the Maxima as it has a low volume chamber and gives you high compression. Put in a block from a 1975-80 280Z or 280ZX. Those have dished pistons as does your L24E. That will keep your compression in the 9:1 to 9.5:1 range. If you use a block from a 1981-83 280ZX then you'll have flattops in there and the compression may be a bit high for a street car. 10.5:1 or higher? Added compression does increase your torque or power righ off the line, but too much compression can cause pinging and forces you to use high octaine fuel or possibly high octain fuel plus octaine booster. If the engine pings just a little, you can retard the ignition just a bit. That is fine for lower rpm power. Higher rpm power may suffer though.
Or just use the whole block/head from the 280zx. It doesn't really matter.
Once that is in on the engine mounts and transmission (it bolts right in, no mods needed) then hook up your same intake manifold. The exhaust ports are the only concern. I don't know for sure what the head on the Maxima has. If you keep your same Maxima head then the exhaust manifold may still be attached and that is no problem. If you use a different head then be sure to use the exhaust manifold from that head as well. It is your option to use the Z or Maxima intake manifold. all the ports are round on the intake side and i don't think they vary as far as air flow.
For the 2.8L you'll need to use the z's fuel injection computer and Air Flow Meter. AFM. Those two items will meter the needed fuel for the larger engine. Without those, you may be running a bit lean. You can probably get by this by using your Maxima's factory equipment and then adjusting the spring tension in the AFM to meter in more fuel. It may work ok, but then again it may not be the optimum fuel for all RPMs.
Of course you can use any items that are vailable for a Z. Headers, K&N cone filter if you can come up with an induction tube and a place to put the filter. Performance cam. (stage 1 or mild cam for best torque) larger throttle body, which is probably only good for high end power... same with a 280ZX turbo AFM swap, but that gets a bit more complicated. Opening up your intake a bit and keeping your factory exhaust size is best for maximum torque.
Remove your A/C and belt for more power, use a 2-V pully from a 240Z or 280Z without A/C for less drag on the engine.
Change out your rear differential to a 3.9 or 4.11 R180 or R200. I think you've got an R180 in there right now, so sticking with that will allow you to keep your current half-shafts.
Another thing is to actually add torque. Increasing your displacement to a 2.8L from the stock 2.4L will add a lot of torque. Mainly because the L28 has a longer stroke. You can keep your current head from the Maxima as it has a low volume chamber and gives you high compression. Put in a block from a 1975-80 280Z or 280ZX. Those have dished pistons as does your L24E. That will keep your compression in the 9:1 to 9.5:1 range. If you use a block from a 1981-83 280ZX then you'll have flattops in there and the compression may be a bit high for a street car. 10.5:1 or higher? Added compression does increase your torque or power righ off the line, but too much compression can cause pinging and forces you to use high octaine fuel or possibly high octain fuel plus octaine booster. If the engine pings just a little, you can retard the ignition just a bit. That is fine for lower rpm power. Higher rpm power may suffer though.
Or just use the whole block/head from the 280zx. It doesn't really matter.
Once that is in on the engine mounts and transmission (it bolts right in, no mods needed) then hook up your same intake manifold. The exhaust ports are the only concern. I don't know for sure what the head on the Maxima has. If you keep your same Maxima head then the exhaust manifold may still be attached and that is no problem. If you use a different head then be sure to use the exhaust manifold from that head as well. It is your option to use the Z or Maxima intake manifold. all the ports are round on the intake side and i don't think they vary as far as air flow.
For the 2.8L you'll need to use the z's fuel injection computer and Air Flow Meter. AFM. Those two items will meter the needed fuel for the larger engine. Without those, you may be running a bit lean. You can probably get by this by using your Maxima's factory equipment and then adjusting the spring tension in the AFM to meter in more fuel. It may work ok, but then again it may not be the optimum fuel for all RPMs.
Of course you can use any items that are vailable for a Z. Headers, K&N cone filter if you can come up with an induction tube and a place to put the filter. Performance cam. (stage 1 or mild cam for best torque) larger throttle body, which is probably only good for high end power... same with a 280ZX turbo AFM swap, but that gets a bit more complicated. Opening up your intake a bit and keeping your factory exhaust size is best for maximum torque.
Remove your A/C and belt for more power, use a 2-V pully from a 240Z or 280Z without A/C for less drag on the engine.
01-15-2003, 02:29 PM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 22
1 Gen maxima upgrades.
The conversion from AT to manual transmission is usually not worth it. The car is plentiful enough that you would probably be better off finding one with a manual transmission. Once you do that you should just get rid of the engine entirely. There is nothing good on a maxima engine except for the crankshaft in the diesel models. Case in point, the zcar people take nothing from the inline 6 cylinder maximas besides their diesel cranks. The go to www.zhome.com and www.zcar.com or call up Dave Rebello and ask him to build you a motor. I have not seen a RWD built maxima and I think you should be the first. It would be cool. Actually someone has to have done this before, does anyone know where pics and tech content is located for such a project?
Some L lineage;
L24
L26 (stroked L24)
L28 (bored L26, or bored and stroked L24)
You can install a diesel crank into an L28 to stroke it. And you can further bore it to get 3.1 litres displacement.
Some L lineage;
L24
L26 (stroked L24)
L28 (bored L26, or bored and stroked L24)
You can install a diesel crank into an L28 to stroke it. And you can further bore it to get 3.1 litres displacement.
01-16-2003, 09:20 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: France
Posts: 221
Maybe he meant early 280 block with flat top pistons installed.
A manual transmission does make a huge difference, especially off the line. Gearing is very important in a 4 or 6 cyl car. With a 4-speed auto you could also just change the rear gear for a 3.9 That will be lower than what you have, but not so low that you are running a high rpm on the freeway. You can find that rear end in the 1981-83 280ZX non-turbo with a manual transmission.
Also, where I am these cars are not plentiful. Its hard to find one at all, much less one in a certain condition or with certain options... but that's just in the northwest.
A manual transmission does make a huge difference, especially off the line. Gearing is very important in a 4 or 6 cyl car. With a 4-speed auto you could also just change the rear gear for a 3.9 That will be lower than what you have, but not so low that you are running a high rpm on the freeway. You can find that rear end in the 1981-83 280ZX non-turbo with a manual transmission.
Also, where I am these cars are not plentiful. Its hard to find one at all, much less one in a certain condition or with certain options... but that's just in the northwest.
01-16-2003, 09:59 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 22
It stands for skinners union. go to www.ztherapy.com
01-16-2003, 04:15 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 250
I know da "skinny"
Originally posted by lohebohi
It stands for skinners union. go to www.ztherapy.com
It stands for skinners union. go to www.ztherapy.com
01-21-2003, 06:30 AM
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 22
I think the best way is to sign up for a geocities account. If you go into 'file manager', and click on upload files. You just direct it to the path where the picture files are located on your hard drive. Then you need to click the box for 'index.html' and click the 'edit' button. There will be a generic template there that you can just delete. In it's place type something like;
<img src="strut.jpg">
<img src="5101.jpg">
<img src="5102.jpg">
<img src="5103.jpg">
<img src="5105.jpg">
<img src="5106.jpg">
<img src="5107.jpg">
<img src="5108.jpg">
<img src="5109.jpg">
<img src="51010.jpg">
<img src="51012.jpg">
All you have to do is make sure file-name inside the quotes (ex. struts.jpg) exactly matches the file you just uploaded. It may seem confusing at first but after you do it once, it will be very easy after that. I use it as an extra storage place for photos. If you are selling something on ebay it can come in real handy because you can just put a link on the ebay to the site with more photos.
<img src="strut.jpg">
<img src="5101.jpg">
<img src="5102.jpg">
<img src="5103.jpg">
<img src="5105.jpg">
<img src="5106.jpg">
<img src="5107.jpg">
<img src="5108.jpg">
<img src="5109.jpg">
<img src="51010.jpg">
<img src="51012.jpg">
All you have to do is make sure file-name inside the quotes (ex. struts.jpg) exactly matches the file you just uploaded. It may seem confusing at first but after you do it once, it will be very easy after that. I use it as an extra storage place for photos. If you are selling something on ebay it can come in real handy because you can just put a link on the ebay to the site with more photos.
03-11-2003, 01:17 AM
#15
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11
Here is a link to the pics..
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=316909
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=316909
09-08-2003, 12:49 PM
#17
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 47
quoting
Swapping to a manual transmission is a first. You can use a 280ZX transmission. The non-turbo 1981-83 has the smoothest shifting feel.
Unless you have the diesel LD28, or have modded it to a Z L28, you have a L24. The 280zx trans will not bolt up, but an early 240 with a L24 trans will
Swapping to a manual transmission is a first. You can use a 280ZX transmission. The non-turbo 1981-83 has the smoothest shifting feel.
Unless you have the diesel LD28, or have modded it to a Z L28, you have a L24. The 280zx trans will not bolt up, but an early 240 with a L24 trans will
05-29-2004, 06:23 PM
#21
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: First generation rear driveland
Posts: 123
I was wondering if anybody commenting here has done the L-28 conversion because nobody mentioned the fact that the maxima L-24 has an oil pan with the sump in the front and the 280zx has the sump in the rear.
Another thing is where the 280zx oil pickup tube mounts. In the Z, it's in the rearward boss and not the front one like in the maxima.
Also..............the hole in the block for the dipstick is toward the rear of the engine instead of the front.
One more thing.............I have never heard of the maxima having a different bolt pattern on it's block than the other L series engines.
Another thing is where the 280zx oil pickup tube mounts. In the Z, it's in the rearward boss and not the front one like in the maxima.
Also..............the hole in the block for the dipstick is toward the rear of the engine instead of the front.
One more thing.............I have never heard of the maxima having a different bolt pattern on it's block than the other L series engines.
06-20-2004, 05:21 AM
#23
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 86
Originally Posted by Nickel-n-Dimer
Here is a link to the pics..
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=316909
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=316909
very good looking car, at a glance those wheels looks like SSR Mk.2..but then I realized.. still, a very stunning ride to say the least..
I've been wanting 1 for a project..
08-03-2004, 08:19 AM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11
In responce to a few comments... The sump, the dip stick,ect...has all been changed, the guy who did the work on the car with me has been building and working on Datsuns for 30+ years, he also has a 1984, but his motor makes mine look stock, he also built the motor and drive train on my 510!...And to the wheels, I have since put the 83 turbo Z wheels back on the Datsun 510, and put on some 81 turbo Z wheels I will have to post pics. Thanks.
11-11-2004, 02:29 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 52
1st Gen Brake Upgrade... am I just Dreaming?
Are there any brakes that I could fit onto my car to replace the horrid drums in back and discs in front?? I have the wagon, thus the solid axle. If not, any good ideas on where I should start looking for an eazy mod?
Thanks,
Clay
Thanks,
Clay
12-04-2004, 08:10 PM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 15
Originally Posted by jeff litchfield
quoting
Unless you have the diesel LD28, or have modded it to a Z L28, you have a L24. The 280zx trans will not bolt up, but an early 240 with a L24 trans will
Unless you have the diesel LD28, or have modded it to a Z L28, you have a L24. The 280zx trans will not bolt up, but an early 240 with a L24 trans will
In fact, even the newer engines (Z20E, Z22E, KA24E, KA24DE) have the same bolt pattern.
12-04-2004, 08:21 PM
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 15
Originally Posted by claytonc
Are there any brakes that I could fit onto my car to replace the horrid drums in back and discs in front?? I have the wagon, thus the solid axle. If not, any good ideas on where I should start looking for an eazy mod?
Personally, I don't think the front discs need changing. They are very similar to those used on the 280ZX, and with good pads they seem to stop just fine.
On the rear, with a few modifications you can swap in the entire rear axle from an 80-83 200SX. This will get you disc brakes and a 3.90?
12-05-2004, 01:28 PM
#29
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 52
Originally Posted by datsunfreak
Easy?
Personally, I don't think the front discs need changing. They are very similar to those used on the 280ZX, and with good pads they seem to stop just fine.
On the rear, with a few modifications you can swap in the entire rear axle from an 80-83 200SX. This will get you disc brakes and a 3.90?
Personally, I don't think the front discs need changing. They are very similar to those used on the 280ZX, and with good pads they seem to stop just fine.
On the rear, with a few modifications you can swap in the entire rear axle from an 80-83 200SX. This will get you disc brakes and a 3.90?
12-30-2004, 05:40 PM
#30
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 3
The tranny tunnels are different on A/T and M/T
cars.The trannies will swap with any L series engines.
The sump and dipstick holes are different between
z/zx and max engines.I aided in turboing a l24e,'84 max.
He used l28et manifold and turbo.Modded the max pan
for oil drainback.He used turbo injectors,modded turbo AFM,
an FMU and stock max ECU.The engine had 150K+ miles and
otherwise bone stock.It ran great on 6 PSI until the auto
tranny started to slip badly.It now sits with a freshened
l24e bottom end with a P90 turbo head complete with an
HKS metal head gasket.He decided to swap in a zx 5speed.
That is when we discovered that a custom tranny crossmember
would have to be fabbed.The car has sat for a year or so.
We actually discussed the crossmember today and decided we
should get busy again.The car will run an hybrid T3/T4,a front
mount intercooler and for now a complete l28et engine management
system.Eventually it will have a standalone.Hopefully,some progress
will occur.I'll keep You guys posted.
Russell
cars.The trannies will swap with any L series engines.
The sump and dipstick holes are different between
z/zx and max engines.I aided in turboing a l24e,'84 max.
He used l28et manifold and turbo.Modded the max pan
for oil drainback.He used turbo injectors,modded turbo AFM,
an FMU and stock max ECU.The engine had 150K+ miles and
otherwise bone stock.It ran great on 6 PSI until the auto
tranny started to slip badly.It now sits with a freshened
l24e bottom end with a P90 turbo head complete with an
HKS metal head gasket.He decided to swap in a zx 5speed.
That is when we discovered that a custom tranny crossmember
would have to be fabbed.The car has sat for a year or so.
We actually discussed the crossmember today and decided we
should get busy again.The car will run an hybrid T3/T4,a front
mount intercooler and for now a complete l28et engine management
system.Eventually it will have a standalone.Hopefully,some progress
will occur.I'll keep You guys posted.
Russell
01-17-2005, 09:57 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: France
Posts: 221
Front disc brakes: Although at first glance they look the same on the 81-84 Maxima and 82-83 280ZX, the ZX has larger calipers and brake pads. The rotor diameter might be the same. Maybe the front struts from an 82-83 280ZX will bolt in to the Maxima for slightly larger braking power up front.
The rear looks the same also, but might be slightly different.
The rear looks the same also, but might be slightly different.
03-29-2005, 06:32 PM
#32
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 7
Originally Posted by Nickel-n-Dimer
Here is a link to the pics..
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=316909
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=316909
Nice pics......
11-13-2005, 09:22 PM
#35
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 3
it was my understanding that the suspension one the 84 and older maximas shared the same front and rear suspension as the same model year 280zxs. . . seeing as how i have 280zx eibach springs and Tokico struts on my car. i thought the brakes were the same as well. i am in the process of performing a Jap model L28 non turbo swap out of a japanese model right hand drive 280zx i bought a couple years ago. i tapped the rear untapped oiling hole on the underside of the block and used the maxima pan and dipstick to make it fit into my car with no clearance issues. im going to use a manual tranny crossmember with my car as well seeing how my car was auto from the factory. ive been into nissans for years, and this is about my tenth or so old school nissan/datsun (just for a little background). i know a good website to find parts for these. . . its a buddy of mine, chris gray's site. he makes parts and is very knowledgeable about these...
http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/maxima.asp
he got me started on my car
ashley mcbride
http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/maxima.asp
he got me started on my car
ashley mcbride
12-25-2005, 08:52 PM
#37
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
Faster maxima
Do what I did and put a 280Z L28 motor in it like my car. Get a set of 240Z carbs a 260Z manifold. I could not get a 72 240Z header to fit so I ordered a exhaust kit for a 72 240Z from Motor sport. The kit fits to the stock 240Z exhaust manifold and enlarged the system to 2.5 inches. You will have to cut the collector flange off about 2 inches down on the pipe and then have some one bend , weld it back together.
