EVAP canister purge volume control valve??
11-22-2003, 11:05 AM
#1
EVAP canister purge volume control valve??
I got this code while trying to fix my Multiple Cylinder Misfire. Anyone know what this is? I have no clue what it does and where is located. Anything about this would be great. Thanks.
06-04-2004, 01:35 PM
#12
To fix my 0903 code. I just swapped out the valve. The valve is attached to the charcoal canister and is held on by 2 10mm bolts. I swapped that out and I haven't gotten any check engine light back.
06-04-2004, 05:40 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 227
Originally Posted by Supa Lao
To fix my 0903 code. I just swapped out the valve. The valve is attached to the charcoal canister and is held on by 2 10mm bolts. I swapped that out and I haven't gotten any check engine light back.
06-04-2004, 08:34 PM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 33
I purchase from Courtesy Nissan www.courtesyparts.com , I don't have the part numbers with me, but the part was redesigned, cost about $150 total. Will try to look up parts numbers Monday
Originally Posted by GarciaMaxima
chiwchan
Where did you get the parts from? I got the same code. Where is the valve located?
Where did you get the parts from? I got the same code. Where is the valve located?
06-05-2004, 05:26 AM
#17
Originally Posted by sterling99SEL
now is this valve at the back of the car near the gas tank or under the hood? I was thinking the canister is in the back. Hope I replace the right thing.
06-05-2004, 10:35 AM
#18
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Morristown, NJ
Posts: 173
I've been getting 0705 and 0309 SES lights.... I thought for a while it was the charcoal canister, but after some readings, I'm thinking it may be the EVAP valve in the engine.... I went to the dealership and they were going to sell me the canister for about $50 and the valve switch for $35. Does this sound right? I'm not sure at this point... It's so much different than what I've been reading.
06-07-2004, 03:44 PM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 33
Parts I purchased for 10 08 (California Emissions):
14920 (Valve)
08911-1081G (Qty=2) - Bolts
14911E (Qty=2) - Clamp
14912MC (Hose)
14912MB (Hose)
Also need new bracket adapter
Call dealer to double check - can't find my invoice right now
14920 (Valve)
08911-1081G (Qty=2) - Bolts
14911E (Qty=2) - Clamp
14912MC (Hose)
14912MB (Hose)
Also need new bracket adapter
Call dealer to double check - can't find my invoice right now
04-18-2005, 11:55 AM
#20
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 44
Where to buy (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve?
The dealer wants $ 251.00 for EVAP canister purge volume control valve.
I’ve noticed that people who had the same problem were able to get it for $140 -$150. Where?
What is the part number/numbers?
Appreciate your help in advance!
Best Regards, Alex
I’ve noticed that people who had the same problem were able to get it for $140 -$150. Where?
What is the part number/numbers?
Appreciate your help in advance!
Best Regards, Alex
11-01-2006, 02:16 PM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 15
Recommend taking the valve apart and try to fix it yourself, especially if it's a matter of wire/contact corrosion or bad spring - there is another discussion about the topic. Recommendation from that discussionwas to replace the spring. I'll try anything once to save $100-$150.
11-02-2006, 12:43 PM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 29
Ok, I took the valve apart and everything looks good, spring and internal parts are in excellent condition, contacts have absolutely no corrosion or anything. Put everything back together with the connector hooked up, ignition on, blow through the nipple thing and the valve was closed, no air getting through, with ignition off I can blow through it, so the valve is function properly I assume. But after driving for couple miles the CHECK engine light came back with the same code 1008.....WTF? check harnesses and they're good, no blown fuse either....please help!! 
04-15-2007, 04:10 PM
#27
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 2
Originally Posted by sagres74
Recommend taking the valve apart and try to fix it yourself, especially if it's a matter of wire/contact corrosion or bad spring - there is another discussion about the topic. Recommendation from that discussionwas to replace the spring. I'll try anything once to save $100-$150.
but is there a link to said discussion? i've been having this code on my infiniti i30 for a while and have been trying to figure out a cheap way to fix this blasted PVCV
06-23-2007, 01:29 PM
#32
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3
Originally Posted by ben805
I bought the ECPVCV from local nissan dealer for $195 and had it replaced last week, the 1008 (P1445) code never came back.....yay!
06-23-2007, 05:21 PM
#35
Originally Posted by willard00
evap vent control valve, its located on the charcoal canistor in the rear of the vehicle (opposite side mufflers on). takes about 5 mins to install.
This vent control valve can throw an 1008 code?
i swapped the purge control valve, purge volume control valve after getting a 1008. gas cap is fine. still getting code so i should look towards the vent control valve?
06-23-2007, 06:15 PM
#37
Originally Posted by willard00
it solved my problem. was $120 from the dealer (called a few different ones and prices varied by like $10-20 though)
08-11-2007, 03:52 PM
#38
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve disassembly
so I got the 1008 code on my inspection. I followed the Nissan manual's instructions for troubleshooting. Checking the EVAP CPVCV,
One is supposed to see ~31 ohms betwen the center and the left & right connectors of the valve. That is,
one's supposed to see 31 ohms between contacts on 2&3, 2&1, 5 &6, 5&4.
There was no contact (inf. ohms) between 2 & 1, and since I read that the valve is basically just a stepper motor, I decided to take it apart to see if it was just a loose solder joint or something I could fix myself.
here's the valve:
and again:
Taking off three screws on the plastic end reveals the motor insides:
(continued in next post)
One is supposed to see ~31 ohms betwen the center and the left & right connectors of the valve. That is,
one's supposed to see 31 ohms between contacts on 2&3, 2&1, 5 &6, 5&4.
There was no contact (inf. ohms) between 2 & 1, and since I read that the valve is basically just a stepper motor, I decided to take it apart to see if it was just a loose solder joint or something I could fix myself.
here's the valve:
and again:
Taking off three screws on the plastic end reveals the motor insides:
(continued in next post)
08-11-2007, 03:58 PM
#39
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
EVAP Canister purge Volume Control Valve disassembly
(continued)
I then took the solenoid assembly (the stacked thing on the plastic part) apart, to see if I could fiddle with the contact enough to fix it:
Unfortunately, no amount of fiddling fixed that contact. I soldered the solenoids back on, put the thing together, and installed it back into the car. I still don't want to pay $180 for it, so I'll try finding one of these things on a junkyard to get a working solenoid out of. Stay tuned.
I then took the solenoid assembly (the stacked thing on the plastic part) apart, to see if I could fiddle with the contact enough to fix it:
Unfortunately, no amount of fiddling fixed that contact. I soldered the solenoids back on, put the thing together, and installed it back into the car. I still don't want to pay $180 for it, so I'll try finding one of these things on a junkyard to get a working solenoid out of. Stay tuned.
