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*Y2KevSE* · 04-11-2001, 08:21 PM

Otter'sMax's Dynamatting

Haven't dynomated my max but I did an entire nissan xcab truck. if you decide to take this on, be prepared for a long day. you have take all carpet out, door panels, seats, etc. you said you doors and trunk, which is a good start. get some acetone, a small harwood roller (kinda like a rolling pin) and a hair dryer. that is all the supplies needed. if you have the money get you local car stereo shop to do it, but be prepared for a huge labor bill. you can do it yourself on a sat or sun and save your cash for something else.

First clean the area completely w/ the acetone to remove any residue that will inhibit bonding. second take the dryer and heat the dynamat that you have already preshaped and cut to the desired area. heat till the entire piece is warm to the touch and pretty shapeable. now heat the panel that it is to be mounted too. mount the piece to the panel, and roll it out with the roller. get out all the air bubbles or you have just wasted your time and money on the dynomat. reinstall the carpet/panels and you are done!

No as for alternatives you can get sprays from companies like rockford fosgate, lightning audio, and dynamat. you can get a cheap alternative to dynamat too. all dynamat is is a thin sheet of asphalt. I used to post all time at http://www.sounddomain.com

Go there and search in their forums. Search for High Temp Mastic or dynamat and see what you come up with. There is a company you can get the same stuff just without the dynamat screenprint on it for about half the price.

Nevermind found it for you
http://www.mcmaster.com/

HI-TEMP MASTIC, its all the way at the bottom, it costs around $13 for a 32" X 54" sheet.

more detailed instructions...
go to the search box on mcmaster.com
type in acoustic
go to acoustic dampers
(you will need adobe acrobat viewer)
there you go at the bottom.

Hope this helps and do it yourself! You'll appreciate it more that way

How bad of a difference do heavy wheels really make???..

IceY2K1's fog light rewire

This is an explanation of how to wire your fog lights to operate with just the running lights on. Sorry, no pics available, however it's pretty simple. The factory setup only allows you to have them on with the low beams. This setup allows the fog light switch to still turn the fogs on/off, however the fogs still turn off once the brights are activated. I ran out of time to figure out how to provide the ground that was removed once the brights are turned on causing the fogs to turn off.

Directions:

0)DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!!

1) Remove passenger-side engine bay relay block cover 2-snaps. I also removed the coolant resevior to make things easier.

2) Remove the snaps to separate the middle section from the bottom. This step is to gain access to the bottom side of the BLUE foglight solenoids'(Top left corner of box) 4-wires.

3) Cut the Yellow wire with 2-silver horizontal bands leaving PLENTY of slack to splice. There are two yellow wires in the relay block, but only one goes to the fog light solenoids' "front-of-vehicle" terminal(right terminal if your looking down while on passenger side).

4) Splice a wire to the cut end that connects to the FOG LIGHT solenoid terminal NOT the one that goes OUT of the fuse block.

5) Drill or poke a hole in the bottom of the relay block case to allow the new wire you just spliced to fit through.

6) Connect the spliced wire with an inline fuse to the turn signals' RED wire with 2-yellow longitudinal stripes and single horizontal silver band every 1". You could also use the front side marker positive wire, but if you make them flash with your turn signals the fog lights will also flash.

7) Reconnect the battery and test ALL you lights. MAKE SURE your headlight switch is NOT in the high beam position or else the fogs will not work with the running lights. I did this and after I disassembled and reassembled everything 2-3 times, I realized I had everything correct but the high beam switch was on. Doooh!

8) Reassemble everything and use LOTS of electrical tape.

Side Note: If you want to have the fog light switch turn on the fog lights withOUT needing the running lights to be on, you could probably just connect the spliced wire to a 12V source that is activated with the ignition instead of the turn signals constant 12V. However, I didn't have time to try this, but I will do this when I connect the turn signals and side markers.

P.S: I also noticed that you can access the front side markers from the bottom of your car once you remove the splash guard to access the fog lights. This might be easier and safer then poping them off with a screw driver.

LED bulbs on turn signals, parking lights

Desert Pearl's exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec)

As many of you already know, I am in the process of partly changing my car from CA emissions to Federal emissions. I am NOT doing a complete conversion, but just enough to get by and also get the increase in HP.

Here's a summary. I am changing the front-side (aka left-side) exhaust manifold from the CA spec to Fed spec. This will allow me to bolt up a Fed spec y-pipe to both manifolds (the rear one is the same on CA and Fed models). I have already relocated the two downstream O2 sensors to after the main cat (similar to the one downstream sensor on the Fed model). You can see pics and descriptions on my web-site of this mod. I will finish the project and post an update here, as soon as I can get a Fed y-pipe.

You can reach this site directly by clicking on the following link:

http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html

O2 sensors and gas milage

In test mode... not sure if the ECU will freak out or not.

Credit: Trunksu for reporting dead link, [maxi-overdose] for giving the updated link

Foozed's A-pillar removal plus tweeter swap

The A-Pillar comes off by using a trim wedge, or regular screwdriver (be careful) by prying it away from the window at the top. It then pulls out from the bottom half. Putting it back in works in reverse (seat the bottom half in first, and snap it in all the way up to the top).

The stock tweeters are horrible. I dont recall 100%, but I think they were made by Clarion or something.. They are made mostly of paper, and are about as big as a quarter. These things couldnt produce a crisp tweet if they tried. I replaced mine with Polk audio components, which fit in perfectly.
The 6.5's for the door required a little plastic work to squeeze them in though..

Who makes leather seat covers for the Max?

Mdeal's BOSE unit rear parcel rattling fix

I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).

I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.

It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.

I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.

The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."

Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.

See thread: http://www.maxima.org/forums/showthr...threadid=35462

Desert Pearl's completed exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec)

http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html

Raced a VOLVO V70 AND AN SC300

Credit: Trunksu for reporting dead link, [maxi-overdose]for giving updated link

Installing Fog light Bulbs

For 00-01s:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2076435/2

Credit: makdaddy386

For 02-03s:

http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/piaa_fogs.html

Credit: Housecor

http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/foglight.html

Credit: Audtatious

Pads and Rotor Replacement

http://home.comcast.net/~i1k/2000MaximaBrakes.html

Credit: i1k

How to install JWT popcharger

Hope I can help as I've installed a pop charger on two different cars.

As far as the stock scoop goes, I left it on both cars but that is a matter of preference. It does seem that it would push some cool air toward the intake. You can remove it if you desire.

Take the hole airbox out including the maf tube (there is a section where you can disconnect it from the scoop) and you remve the MAF tube after losening a hose clamp.

Take out the four bolts holding the maf to the airbox.

Set aside your airbox.

I find it easiest to remove the cone from the velocity stack at this point.

Bolt 3 of the new bolts that came with your pop charger to the maf tube leaving the one that will be closest to the top of the strut tower empty.

Slide the maf back into the area you removed it from. Slide makes it sound easy.. it actually requires a lot of work and a couple good strong shoves.

Tighten the hose clamp on the MAF.

Grab the mounting bracket, put one end over the empty hole on your pop charger and the other end to the airbox mounting point on your strut tower and bolt them both on.

Screw the cone filter back onto the velocity stack.

Crank that baby up and hear it suck in the air.

Here are some pics from a link provided by YJ (pics appear to be taken by gr8bone based on the URL

: http://members.nbci.com/gr8bone/intake/

PR CAI Install

http://www.geocities.com/nismorg/Maxima/cai.html

Oh just incase Geocities doesn't behave, keep refreshing, they are there.

OSCAI Question?

Struts/Springs Swap

You gotta do this with someone who has done springs before. The first time I did it with my friend it took us about 8 hours (no air tools and no lift). I did struts this weekend with Tim's help and it still took 4-5 hours.

The short of it is:

For rear:

1. Jack up rear end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). Note: Don't jack it up by the axle or you'll have "fun" getting it back together.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the trunk liner.
4. There are 3 bolts on top of each strut. They can be found where the trunk meets the back seat.
5. Figure out some way to remove them (I used 2 socket extensions together. They are 14mm. Remove the outter 2 bolts, leaving the one in the center.
6. Remove the larg bolt connecting the strut to the axle (will need a breaker bar or equivalent).
7. Compress the spring.
8. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt).
9. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
10. Do steps 1-9 in reverse.

For front:

1. Jack up front end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift).
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Slightly loosen the center bolt on top of each strut.
4. Undo the 3 bolts around top of each strut.
5. Undo the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut (will need a breaker bar or equivalent).
6. Remove all the brake line clips from the bottom of the strut (there is a total of 3).
7. Remove the strut assembly from the car.
8. Compress the spring.
9. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt).
10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
11. Do steps 1-10 in reverse.

0-60 Calculations from 1/4 Mile Slip

Anyone with a 1/4mile timeslip can make a very good estimate of their 0-60 time. Here's how:

1. Put your times in the following format in Excel:

time distance
2.439 60
6.737 330
10.202 660
13.154 1000
15.683 1320

2. Make an X/Y graph with the time on the X axis and the distance on the Y axis.

3. Add a trendline (polynomial fit of order 2) and display the formula. For those of us with less Excel experience than others, do this by clicking on any data point on the graph, then click on Chart in the main menu. Then click on Add Trendline. Then select polynomial. Make sure that it says order 2. Click on Options. Toward the bottom, click the box for Display Equation on Chart

4. Now you should have a graph with your data, plus a curvefit, plus a formula. This formula is in the form

y = ax^2 + bx + c

In another cell in Excel type the following:

"=(88-b)/2/a" inserting your values for a and b of course

This value is a VERY VERY good estimate of your 0-60mph time. Believe me this is much easier than it appears in my instructions. In fact it sounds like a good website to make. I think I'll do that next time I get some free time.

Here's a picture that will help illustrate what it should look like. Any questions, feel free to email me.

BTW, the example I used is my best 0-60 in my auto Max (7.90 sec).

Sighted: 99 SE-L Dark Gray with Diamond Cuts in Antelope/Citrus Heights

AE auto shift knob on 2000 model

Some modifications need to be done to the shift assembly (the part the shift knob attaches to) in order to get the AE shift knob to fit and work. Without the modifications to the shift assembly, the AE automatic shift knob will not work: the new shift knob is not plug-n-play on a 2000 model Maxima.

Once you modify the shift assembly, so that the AE knob will fit and work, your stock "T" shaped shift knob WILL NO LONGER WORK. This means once you switch you can not go back unless you purchase a new shift assembly. The shift assembly costs between $200~$300.

I took some notes as to what needs to happen to get the AE shift knob fitted and working on a 2000 model Maxima. I did not have a camera at the time I actually did the work, but I have summarized the key points on my website. The key points are the measurements and what needs to be modified. I took pics after I had everything done and some time later.

I do not include instructions on how to remove the center console, nor do I include instructions on how to disconnect the OD wires and reconnect the OD wires. You can PM me and I can assist with these two items.

Here are my notes:
http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html and choose "Non-AE Automatic Transmission Shift Knob Installation".

Good luck!

Punching out cat

Materials needed.
WD40
Long screwdriver (doesn't matter if its flathead or x)
Hammer.
Paper grocery sack.

1. Jack the front of the car up so that you can get under the car easily.
2. Right behind the Y pipe there should be the cat. It has a heatshield covering it. Remove the heatshield.
3. There should be 4 screws to unscrew. You need a 14 MM IIRC. These bolts will be very difficult to remove. Try using WD-40 to loosen them up first. Use a breaker bar with a deep socket 14 MM. The screws are kinda long.
4. There is a sensor there as well. Be sure you remember how it goes back on.
5. After removing the cat. Find a paper grocery sack.
6. Using a deep long screwdriver start hammering out the honey comb inside. Try to get large chunks out first. This will make it easier at the end.
7. Continue "punching" out the cat until all is gone.
8. Replace the cat and put the sensor back on. bolt the cat back on tightly so it doesn't rattle.
9. If you feel no gains at all try reseting the ecu.
10. Enjoy.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsable for you fouling up, not passing emissions and everything else. If you screw up its at your own cost. Don't come looking for me if you foul up.

How-To Install Chrome Gauge bezels on 2000+ Nissan Maxima

You will need a phillips screw driver for this.

1- Unscrew 2 screws at the top of the dashboard inside where the instrument cluster is.
2- Unscrew the 4 outside under the steering wheel... that will detach the top part of the plastic cover over the steering column. take that off.
3- Pull out the plastic that is around the instrument cluster that is holding in the gauge cluster into the car... when pulling this out you will have to disconect the wires from behind it. pull out the traction control wire (if you have it) and the other 2 wires on the left side ( i dont remember what they are... i think the dim switch and the mirror adjustment)
4- This will expose 3 screws to remove the actual cluster from the car. 1 on top in the middle, 1 on the bottom left corner, 1 on the bottom right corner. Unscrew these 3 screws
5- pull out the cluster. there are also 2 wires to disconect from the back of this. just pull them out the same way you did with the other ones. once they are disconected just pull the whole cluster out.
6- the clear plastic cover is attached to the cluster with maybe 10 little snaps all around the whole thing... they work on pressure... when you see them you will right away know how to un snap them... just go all the way around and unsnap each of them.
7- once everything is unsnapped just pull the clear plastic off and now your instrument cluster is exposed. stick the guage bezels on each of the gauges. press down firmly and make sure that they stick good... push down all the way around so there are no little cracks that light can pass through between... just run your finger all around a bunch of times applying pressure. also you dont want these things to fly off while you are driving.
8- put the plastic back on and work in reverse order by attaching all the wires and putting the screws back and everything and thats it.
9- sit and admire it and say cool that looks pretty good

UDP Install

GregP's site:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20pulley.htm
(make sure the whole address is on one line)

My explanation:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.

If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.

Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.

I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.

I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)

Koni Install

I finally had time this last weekend to install the 4th Gen. koni adjustable shocks I purchased from Cattman and the H&R springs from the Tire Rack. Thanks to OzziSVT for his help! The entire operation took 6 hours with hand tools and manual spring compressors.

The low down…

Rear Suspension

After we had the car on jack stands and removed the trunk liner we noticed a sheet metal stamping that went around the top of the shock attachment that had a small opening for tool access to the shock retaining bolts. We could not get our ratchet onto one of the bolts. So we put the rear seats down and removed the plastic backing between the seats and sheet metal. Then we saw that the trunk pass through has a large metal stamping around the opening that buts up against the shock tower stampings. After we removed a majority of the bolts on the large stamping we were able to remove the shock tower stampings.

The rear shocks are a direct bolt in with no modifications necessary. The total time was two hours.

Front Suspension

The front struts are easy to remove. Two bolts hold on the shock to the knuckle (they do not have a cam type shoulder for setting the alignment). The shock also has a clip that retains the break line and a grommet and another bolt that retain the ABS wire. Removing the springs is a straightforward process.

Replacing the strut insert took some time. We followed the instructions for draining the shock of its oil. Next, we had the cut the top off the body of the strut. You have to measure down 3/4" for your cut (the instructions say 7mm). This is because the internal portion of the shock is attached to the body for a little over 1/2". The koni cartridge fit within the modified strut housing.

This is where we had to do some modifications to the strut hat.

The first item is that the threaded stock end of the rod has been machined off on the sides of the treads to allow a hold and drive device to be used on the shock (if you look at the threads from the top it appears that the circle was changed to a rectangle with the short ends are an arc instead of a straight line). This profile is copied onto the strut hat. The koni's did not have this feature, so we had to take a Dremel tool and open up the hat.

Secondly, the hat has a metal collar that extends down to contact the shoulder of the strut rod. The stock shoulder allows more threads than the koni units. Therefore we had to remove about 2/3 of the collar to get enough thread to bolt the rod the hat.

Just make sure that you properly align the hat with the spring retainer (the retainer has a marking that specifies "OUT") during reassembly.

The total time was 4 hours.

Credit: DNA21

My new dream nissan...

Street Scenes Grill Install

Check out pics of the finished product here:

http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...7&cat=25&val=1

1) I ordered them from my local speed shop in June, installed the valence in July & the main grille in August.
2) They are manufactured by Street Scene Equipment.
3) Help out a fellow Maxima Enthusiast by ordering them from Greg at www.CustomMaxima.com at $120 for the main grille and $100 for the valence grille.
4) It's recommended that you cut out the main grille to install it correctly.
5) Valence grille installs in less than 30 minutes, no cutting.
6) Main grille installation takes much longer. If you're as picky as I am about it being perfect, it may take the better part of a day, if you cut out the original main grille.
7) I installed them by myself.
8) If you decide to chrome it, make sure you prefit it first, because it might need some shaping to fit perfect, otherwise the chrome plating might chip off if done afterwards.
9) Part numbers: Main Grille #95077300
Valence Grille #95077320

Valence Speed Grille install:
1)Remove approximately 8-10 (4 or 5 per side) splashguard fasteners beneath front bumper (plastic plugs) and bend down the splashguards. The splashguards are flexible and bend at the crease.
2)You might not need car ramps, if you can reach in behind the bumper to install the clips, but it will make it easier.
3)Attach the long clips provided from behind bumper and install the grille from the front, it only installs one way & you can tell because one end (top or bottom) is more narrow. The grille also has indentations where it rests against the vertical plastic fins (supports) of the bumper.
4)The clips can be difficult to pry open, so watch you're fingers. Push the clips until they are gripping the bumper and an edge of the grille at the same time. Try to space them evenly, 4 top & 4 bottom. The clips are shaped to allow clearance over the grille mesh, so they only install one way. It's easier to clip the areas that have mesh that extends further back towards the rear of the bumper.
5)Replace splash guard fasteners, now you're done.

Main Speed Grille install:
1)Remove multiple fasteners on top of center grille & beneath the car (plastic plugs & a few screws). There are four (4) above the grille, approx. ten (10) beneath the front bumper, & approx. five (5) associated with each wheel well. You may need to remove these to get at the lights.
2)Disconnect foglights & sidemarkers.
3)Remove front bumper with someone to help & place on a non-scratch surface. I used a bunch of old towels beneath it, in case I dropped any fasteners or the bumper itself.
4)Remove screws holding grille surrounding trim (chrome color on GXE? & GLE and charcoal grey on SE) in place from the backside of the bumper.
5)Cut out original main grille beams, leaving the holes for the screws to reattach the surrounding trim. I used a hacksaw blade with no handle attached, it's easier to position. Cut around the holes, using the trim as a template.
6)Use a Dremel tool or file to make the cuts flush & remove any plastic burrs.
7)I spray-painted the cut locations flat black, because the plastic gets greyish-white when you cut it. A few light coats is sufficient. Let it dry between coats & before proceeding further.
8)Replace the surrounding trim with the screws.
9)Gently bend the grille to fit snug and tight. Only bend the contact points at the edges. Be careful not to scratch the surrounding trim, as the grille edges are sharp. The front of the grille should fit flush with the back edge (lip) of the surrounding trim. It will be positioned approx. 1/2 inch back.
10)It installs with short clips, but I used several black zip ties at strategic locations (at the surrounding trim screw locations) which are hard to see, unless you are less than a foot from the car. I also used a few self-drilling screws to make sure it doesn't come loose. The screws drill a hole first, so that the plastic doesn't crack, which will happen with regular screws.
11)Replace the bumper & reconnect the lights.
12)Replace all of the fasteners that you removed.
13)If you don't have any extra hardware after installation, you're done!
14)Take a picture of your car and post some pics. I've already seen them on Superblack (Pillager & RussMaxManiac) & Icelandic Pearl (chucky) Maximas, so please post pics of other color Maximas or if you've got some sweet mods. Oh yeah, remember to close your mouth, you're drooling. Crack open a cold one if you're of drinkin age, just don't drive afterwards. Peace & enjoy your beer, you deserve it.

See psing23 "Installing Chrome Gauge Bezels" for more clarification on how to remove the gauges cluster/bezel.

Pro-Shift Lite Install Click here for some pics
------------------------------------
1)Disconnect Battery NEGATIVE terminal! Wrap terminal in shop towel and put it where it won’t move.
2)Remove (3) Philips-head screws under steering column to remove top half of plastic steering column cover.
3)Move steering column to lowest position.
4)Remove (2) Philips-head screws underneath top part of gauge bezel(Tach/Speedo).
5)Unsnap large electrical connector on top back portion of steering column near the gauge bezel for more clearance.
6)Pull black bezels’ lower quadrant until snaps on left and right side release.
7)Carefully pull bezel away from the dash on the LEFT side and unsnap power mirror and gauge dimmer harness.
8)Remove bezel completely.
9)Remove (3) Philips-head bolts(White) on Combination meter.
10)Carefully pull Combo meter out of dash and turn UPSIDE down to expose reverse sides’ wiring harnesses.
11)Put Dielectric grease on an universal 18-22 gauge TAP.
12)Tap the White with GREEN stripe wire on Combo meters’ left most harness down towards the Y in the wires where the foam insulation is split. Use tape to protect the wire/tap from chaffing and rattling.
13)Connect the TAP to the GREEN wire of Shift Light.
14)Run the Shift Lights’ RED and BLACK wires to the FUSE panel on lower left side of steering column.
15)Connect BLACK ground wire to bolt on car.
16)Find empty “fuse slot” in fuse block.
17)Snip SMALL amount off one leg of a SPARE 5-AMP fuse.
18)Place RED power wire on shorter leg of the fuse and push into the LOWER/BOTTOM half of the “fuse slot”.
19)Reconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal.
20)Plug in the 3000 RPM pill, start the car, rev slowly past 3000, and see that light comes on and stays on.
21)Replace the 3000 RPM pill with the correct HIGH rpm pill.
22)DO NOT LEAVE THE 3000 RPM PILL IN! The light remains on and the unit gets VERY hot.
23)Reverse steps 2-10 to reinstall gauge cluster/bezel.

04-11-2001, 08:21 PM	#4
Y2KevSE Rice Boy in Denial =) Join Date: Aug 2000 iTrader: (13) Posts: 25,371	How To's Page 1 Otter'sMax's Dynamatting Haven't dynomated my max but I did an entire nissan xcab truck. if you decide to take this on, be prepared for a long day. you have take all carpet out, door panels, seats, etc. you said you doors and trunk, which is a good start. get some acetone, a small harwood roller (kinda like a rolling pin) and a hair dryer. that is all the supplies needed. if you have the money get you local car stereo shop to do it, but be prepared for a huge labor bill. you can do it yourself on a sat or sun and save your cash for something else. First clean the area completely w/ the acetone to remove any residue that will inhibit bonding. second take the dryer and heat the dynamat that you have already preshaped and cut to the desired area. heat till the entire piece is warm to the touch and pretty shapeable. now heat the panel that it is to be mounted too. mount the piece to the panel, and roll it out with the roller. get out all the air bubbles or you have just wasted your time and money on the dynomat. reinstall the carpet/panels and you are done! No as for alternatives you can get sprays from companies like rockford fosgate, lightning audio, and dynamat. you can get a cheap alternative to dynamat too. all dynamat is is a thin sheet of asphalt. I used to post all time at http://www.sounddomain.com Go there and search in their forums. Search for High Temp Mastic or dynamat and see what you come up with. There is a company you can get the same stuff just without the dynamat screenprint on it for about half the price. Nevermind found it for you http://www.mcmaster.com/ HI-TEMP MASTIC, its all the way at the bottom, it costs around $13 for a 32" X 54" sheet. more detailed instructions... go to the search box on mcmaster.com type in acoustic go to acoustic dampers (you will need adobe acrobat viewer) there you go at the bottom. Hope this helps and do it yourself! You'll appreciate it more that way How bad of a difference do heavy wheels really make???.. IceY2K1's fog light rewire This is an explanation of how to wire your fog lights to operate with just the running lights on. Sorry, no pics available, however it's pretty simple. The factory setup only allows you to have them on with the low beams. This setup allows the fog light switch to still turn the fogs on/off, however the fogs still turn off once the brights are activated. I ran out of time to figure out how to provide the ground that was removed once the brights are turned on causing the fogs to turn off. Directions: 0)DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!! 1) Remove passenger-side engine bay relay block cover 2-snaps. I also removed the coolant resevior to make things easier. 2) Remove the snaps to separate the middle section from the bottom. This step is to gain access to the bottom side of the BLUE foglight solenoids'(Top left corner of box) 4-wires. 3) Cut the Yellow wire with 2-silver horizontal bands leaving PLENTY of slack to splice. There are two yellow wires in the relay block, but only one goes to the fog light solenoids' "front-of-vehicle" terminal(right terminal if your looking down while on passenger side). 4) Splice a wire to the cut end that connects to the FOG LIGHT solenoid terminal NOT the one that goes OUT of the fuse block. 5) Drill or poke a hole in the bottom of the relay block case to allow the new wire you just spliced to fit through. 6) Connect the spliced wire with an inline fuse to the turn signals' RED wire with 2-yellow longitudinal stripes and single horizontal silver band every 1". You could also use the front side marker positive wire, but if you make them flash with your turn signals the fog lights will also flash. 7) Reconnect the battery and test ALL you lights. MAKE SURE your headlight switch is NOT in the high beam position or else the fogs will not work with the running lights. I did this and after I disassembled and reassembled everything 2-3 times, I realized I had everything correct but the high beam switch was on. Doooh! 8) Reassemble everything and use LOTS of electrical tape. Side Note: If you want to have the fog light switch turn on the fog lights withOUT needing the running lights to be on, you could probably just connect the spliced wire to a 12V source that is activated with the ignition instead of the turn signals constant 12V. However, I didn't have time to try this, but I will do this when I connect the turn signals and side markers. P.S: I also noticed that you can access the front side markers from the bottom of your car once you remove the splash guard to access the fog lights. This might be easier and safer then poping them off with a screw driver. LED bulbs on turn signals, parking lights Desert Pearl's exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec) As many of you already know, I am in the process of partly changing my car from CA emissions to Federal emissions. I am NOT doing a complete conversion, but just enough to get by and also get the increase in HP. Here's a summary. I am changing the front-side (aka left-side) exhaust manifold from the CA spec to Fed spec. This will allow me to bolt up a Fed spec y-pipe to both manifolds (the rear one is the same on CA and Fed models). I have already relocated the two downstream O2 sensors to after the main cat (similar to the one downstream sensor on the Fed model). You can see pics and descriptions on my web-site of this mod. I will finish the project and post an update here, as soon as I can get a Fed y-pipe. You can reach this site directly by clicking on the following link: http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html O2 sensors and gas milage In test mode... not sure if the ECU will freak out or not. Credit: Trunksu for reporting dead link, [maxi-overdose] for giving the updated link Foozed's A-pillar removal plus tweeter swap The A-Pillar comes off by using a trim wedge, or regular screwdriver (be careful) by prying it away from the window at the top. It then pulls out from the bottom half. Putting it back in works in reverse (seat the bottom half in first, and snap it in all the way up to the top). The stock tweeters are horrible. I dont recall 100%, but I think they were made by Clarion or something.. They are made mostly of paper, and are about as big as a quarter. These things couldnt produce a crisp tweet if they tried. I replaced mine with Polk audio components, which fit in perfectly. The 6.5's for the door required a little plastic work to squeeze them in though.. Who makes leather seat covers for the Max? Mdeal's BOSE unit rear parcel rattling fix I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel). I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound. It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst. I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers. The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..." Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now. See thread: http://www.maxima.org/forums/showthr...threadid=35462 Desert Pearl's completed exhaust manifold conversion (Cali-spec to Fed-spec) http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html Raced a VOLVO V70 AND AN SC300 Credit: Trunksu for reporting dead link, [maxi-overdose]for giving updated link Installing Fog light Bulbs For 00-01s: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2076435/2 Credit: makdaddy386 For 02-03s: http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/piaa_fogs.html Credit: Housecor http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/foglight.html Credit: Audtatious Pads and Rotor Replacement http://home.comcast.net/~i1k/2000MaximaBrakes.html Credit: i1k How to install JWT popcharger Hope I can help as I've installed a pop charger on two different cars. As far as the stock scoop goes, I left it on both cars but that is a matter of preference. It does seem that it would push some cool air toward the intake. You can remove it if you desire. Take the hole airbox out including the maf tube (there is a section where you can disconnect it from the scoop) and you remve the MAF tube after losening a hose clamp. Take out the four bolts holding the maf to the airbox. Set aside your airbox. I find it easiest to remove the cone from the velocity stack at this point. Bolt 3 of the new bolts that came with your pop charger to the maf tube leaving the one that will be closest to the top of the strut tower empty. Slide the maf back into the area you removed it from. Slide makes it sound easy.. it actually requires a lot of work and a couple good strong shoves. Tighten the hose clamp on the MAF. Grab the mounting bracket, put one end over the empty hole on your pop charger and the other end to the airbox mounting point on your strut tower and bolt them both on. Screw the cone filter back onto the velocity stack. Crank that baby up and hear it suck in the air. Here are some pics from a link provided by YJ (pics appear to be taken by gr8bone based on the URL : http://members.nbci.com/gr8bone/intake/ PR CAI Install http://www.geocities.com/nismorg/Maxima/cai.html Oh just incase Geocities doesn't behave, keep refreshing, they are there. OSCAI Question? Struts/Springs Swap You gotta do this with someone who has done springs before. The first time I did it with my friend it took us about 8 hours (no air tools and no lift). I did struts this weekend with Tim's help and it still took 4-5 hours. The short of it is: For rear: 1. Jack up rear end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). Note: Don't jack it up by the axle or you'll have "fun" getting it back together. 2. Remove the rear wheels. 3. Remove the trunk liner. 4. There are 3 bolts on top of each strut. They can be found where the trunk meets the back seat. 5. Figure out some way to remove them (I used 2 socket extensions together. They are 14mm. Remove the outter 2 bolts, leaving the one in the center. 6. Remove the larg bolt connecting the strut to the axle (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). 7. Compress the spring. 8. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt). 9. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut. 10. Do steps 1-9 in reverse. For front: 1. Jack up front end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Slightly loosen the center bolt on top of each strut. 4. Undo the 3 bolts around top of each strut. 5. Undo the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). 6. Remove all the brake line clips from the bottom of the strut (there is a total of 3). 7. Remove the strut assembly from the car. 8. Compress the spring. 9. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt). 10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut. 11. Do steps 1-10 in reverse. 0-60 Calculations from 1/4 Mile Slip Anyone with a 1/4mile timeslip can make a very good estimate of their 0-60 time. Here's how: 1. Put your times in the following format in Excel: time distance 2.439 60 6.737 330 10.202 660 13.154 1000 15.683 1320 2. Make an X/Y graph with the time on the X axis and the distance on the Y axis. 3. Add a trendline (polynomial fit of order 2) and display the formula. For those of us with less Excel experience than others, do this by clicking on any data point on the graph, then click on Chart in the main menu. Then click on Add Trendline. Then select polynomial. Make sure that it says order 2. Click on Options. Toward the bottom, click the box for Display Equation on Chart 4. Now you should have a graph with your data, plus a curvefit, plus a formula. This formula is in the form y = ax^2 + bx + c In another cell in Excel type the following: "=(88-b)/2/a" inserting your values for a and b of course This value is a VERY VERY good estimate of your 0-60mph time. Believe me this is much easier than it appears in my instructions. In fact it sounds like a good website to make. I think I'll do that next time I get some free time. Here's a picture that will help illustrate what it should look like. Any questions, feel free to email me. BTW, the example I used is my best 0-60 in my auto Max (7.90 sec). Sighted: 99 SE-L Dark Gray with Diamond Cuts in Antelope/Citrus Heights AE auto shift knob on 2000 model Some modifications need to be done to the shift assembly (the part the shift knob attaches to) in order to get the AE shift knob to fit and work. Without the modifications to the shift assembly, the AE automatic shift knob will not work: the new shift knob is not plug-n-play on a 2000 model Maxima. Once you modify the shift assembly, so that the AE knob will fit and work, your stock "T" shaped shift knob WILL NO LONGER WORK. This means once you switch you can not go back unless you purchase a new shift assembly. The shift assembly costs between $200~$300. I took some notes as to what needs to happen to get the AE shift knob fitted and working on a 2000 model Maxima. I did not have a camera at the time I actually did the work, but I have summarized the key points on my website. The key points are the measurements and what needs to be modified. I took pics after I had everything done and some time later. I do not include instructions on how to remove the center console, nor do I include instructions on how to disconnect the OD wires and reconnect the OD wires. You can PM me and I can assist with these two items. Here are my notes: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html and choose "Non-AE Automatic Transmission Shift Knob Installation". Good luck! Punching out cat Materials needed. WD40 Long screwdriver (doesn't matter if its flathead or x) Hammer. Paper grocery sack. 1. Jack the front of the car up so that you can get under the car easily. 2. Right behind the Y pipe there should be the cat. It has a heatshield covering it. Remove the heatshield. 3. There should be 4 screws to unscrew. You need a 14 MM IIRC. These bolts will be very difficult to remove. Try using WD-40 to loosen them up first. Use a breaker bar with a deep socket 14 MM. The screws are kinda long. 4. There is a sensor there as well. Be sure you remember how it goes back on. 5. After removing the cat. Find a paper grocery sack. 6. Using a deep long screwdriver start hammering out the honey comb inside. Try to get large chunks out first. This will make it easier at the end. 7. Continue "punching" out the cat until all is gone. 8. Replace the cat and put the sensor back on. bolt the cat back on tightly so it doesn't rattle. 9. If you feel no gains at all try reseting the ecu. 10. Enjoy. DISCLAIMER: I am not responsable for you fouling up, not passing emissions and everything else. If you screw up its at your own cost. Don't come looking for me if you foul up. How-To Install Chrome Gauge bezels on 2000+ Nissan Maxima You will need a phillips screw driver for this. 1- Unscrew 2 screws at the top of the dashboard inside where the instrument cluster is. 2- Unscrew the 4 outside under the steering wheel... that will detach the top part of the plastic cover over the steering column. take that off. 3- Pull out the plastic that is around the instrument cluster that is holding in the gauge cluster into the car... when pulling this out you will have to disconect the wires from behind it. pull out the traction control wire (if you have it) and the other 2 wires on the left side ( i dont remember what they are... i think the dim switch and the mirror adjustment) 4- This will expose 3 screws to remove the actual cluster from the car. 1 on top in the middle, 1 on the bottom left corner, 1 on the bottom right corner. Unscrew these 3 screws 5- pull out the cluster. there are also 2 wires to disconect from the back of this. just pull them out the same way you did with the other ones. once they are disconected just pull the whole cluster out. 6- the clear plastic cover is attached to the cluster with maybe 10 little snaps all around the whole thing... they work on pressure... when you see them you will right away know how to un snap them... just go all the way around and unsnap each of them. 7- once everything is unsnapped just pull the clear plastic off and now your instrument cluster is exposed. stick the guage bezels on each of the gauges. press down firmly and make sure that they stick good... push down all the way around so there are no little cracks that light can pass through between... just run your finger all around a bunch of times applying pressure. also you dont want these things to fly off while you are driving. 8- put the plastic back on and work in reverse order by attaching all the wires and putting the screws back and everything and thats it. 9- sit and admire it and say cool that looks pretty good UDP Install GregP's site: http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20pulley.htm (make sure the whole address is on one line) My explanation: 1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts. 2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt. 3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car. 4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free. 5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP. 6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun. 7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? * 8) Tighten belt tensions 9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec. 10) Done. If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways. Desert Pearl's addition: Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free. I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes. I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!) Koni Install I finally had time this last weekend to install the 4th Gen. koni adjustable shocks I purchased from Cattman and the H&R springs from the Tire Rack. Thanks to OzziSVT for his help! The entire operation took 6 hours with hand tools and manual spring compressors. The low down… Rear Suspension After we had the car on jack stands and removed the trunk liner we noticed a sheet metal stamping that went around the top of the shock attachment that had a small opening for tool access to the shock retaining bolts. We could not get our ratchet onto one of the bolts. So we put the rear seats down and removed the plastic backing between the seats and sheet metal. Then we saw that the trunk pass through has a large metal stamping around the opening that buts up against the shock tower stampings. After we removed a majority of the bolts on the large stamping we were able to remove the shock tower stampings. The rear shocks are a direct bolt in with no modifications necessary. The total time was two hours. Front Suspension The front struts are easy to remove. Two bolts hold on the shock to the knuckle (they do not have a cam type shoulder for setting the alignment). The shock also has a clip that retains the break line and a grommet and another bolt that retain the ABS wire. Removing the springs is a straightforward process. Replacing the strut insert took some time. We followed the instructions for draining the shock of its oil. Next, we had the cut the top off the body of the strut. You have to measure down 3/4" for your cut (the instructions say 7mm). This is because the internal portion of the shock is attached to the body for a little over 1/2". The koni cartridge fit within the modified strut housing. This is where we had to do some modifications to the strut hat. The first item is that the threaded stock end of the rod has been machined off on the sides of the treads to allow a hold and drive device to be used on the shock (if you look at the threads from the top it appears that the circle was changed to a rectangle with the short ends are an arc instead of a straight line). This profile is copied onto the strut hat. The koni's did not have this feature, so we had to take a Dremel tool and open up the hat. Secondly, the hat has a metal collar that extends down to contact the shoulder of the strut rod. The stock shoulder allows more threads than the koni units. Therefore we had to remove about 2/3 of the collar to get enough thread to bolt the rod the hat. Just make sure that you properly align the hat with the spring retainer (the retainer has a marking that specifies "OUT") during reassembly. The total time was 4 hours. Credit: DNA21 My new dream nissan... Street Scenes Grill Install Check out pics of the finished product here: http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...7&cat=25&val=1 1) I ordered them from my local speed shop in June, installed the valence in July & the main grille in August. 2) They are manufactured by Street Scene Equipment. 3) Help out a fellow Maxima Enthusiast by ordering them from Greg at www.CustomMaxima.com at $120 for the main grille and $100 for the valence grille. 4) It's recommended that you cut out the main grille to install it correctly. 5) Valence grille installs in less than 30 minutes, no cutting. 6) Main grille installation takes much longer. If you're as picky as I am about it being perfect, it may take the better part of a day, if you cut out the original main grille. 7) I installed them by myself. 8) If you decide to chrome it, make sure you prefit it first, because it might need some shaping to fit perfect, otherwise the chrome plating might chip off if done afterwards. 9) Part numbers: Main Grille #95077300 Valence Grille #95077320 Valence Speed Grille install: 1)Remove approximately 8-10 (4 or 5 per side) splashguard fasteners beneath front bumper (plastic plugs) and bend down the splashguards. The splashguards are flexible and bend at the crease. 2)You might not need car ramps, if you can reach in behind the bumper to install the clips, but it will make it easier. 3)Attach the long clips provided from behind bumper and install the grille from the front, it only installs one way & you can tell because one end (top or bottom) is more narrow. The grille also has indentations where it rests against the vertical plastic fins (supports) of the bumper. 4)The clips can be difficult to pry open, so watch you're fingers. Push the clips until they are gripping the bumper and an edge of the grille at the same time. Try to space them evenly, 4 top & 4 bottom. The clips are shaped to allow clearance over the grille mesh, so they only install one way. It's easier to clip the areas that have mesh that extends further back towards the rear of the bumper. 5)Replace splash guard fasteners, now you're done. Main Speed Grille install: 1)Remove multiple fasteners on top of center grille & beneath the car (plastic plugs & a few screws). There are four (4) above the grille, approx. ten (10) beneath the front bumper, & approx. five (5) associated with each wheel well. You may need to remove these to get at the lights. 2)Disconnect foglights & sidemarkers. 3)Remove front bumper with someone to help & place on a non-scratch surface. I used a bunch of old towels beneath it, in case I dropped any fasteners or the bumper itself. 4)Remove screws holding grille surrounding trim (chrome color on GXE? & GLE and charcoal grey on SE) in place from the backside of the bumper. 5)Cut out original main grille beams, leaving the holes for the screws to reattach the surrounding trim. I used a hacksaw blade with no handle attached, it's easier to position. Cut around the holes, using the trim as a template. 6)Use a Dremel tool or file to make the cuts flush & remove any plastic burrs. 7)I spray-painted the cut locations flat black, because the plastic gets greyish-white when you cut it. A few light coats is sufficient. Let it dry between coats & before proceeding further. 8)Replace the surrounding trim with the screws. 9)Gently bend the grille to fit snug and tight. Only bend the contact points at the edges. Be careful not to scratch the surrounding trim, as the grille edges are sharp. The front of the grille should fit flush with the back edge (lip) of the surrounding trim. It will be positioned approx. 1/2 inch back. 10)It installs with short clips, but I used several black zip ties at strategic locations (at the surrounding trim screw locations) which are hard to see, unless you are less than a foot from the car. I also used a few self-drilling screws to make sure it doesn't come loose. The screws drill a hole first, so that the plastic doesn't crack, which will happen with regular screws. 11)Replace the bumper & reconnect the lights. 12)Replace all of the fasteners that you removed. 13)If you don't have any extra hardware after installation, you're done! 14)Take a picture of your car and post some pics. I've already seen them on Superblack (Pillager & RussMaxManiac) & Icelandic Pearl (chucky) Maximas, so please post pics of other color Maximas or if you've got some sweet mods. Oh yeah, remember to close your mouth, you're drooling. Crack open a cold one if you're of drinkin age, just don't drive afterwards. Peace & enjoy your beer, you deserve it. See psing23 "Installing Chrome Gauge Bezels" for more clarification on how to remove the gauges cluster/bezel. Pro-Shift Lite Install Click here for some pics ------------------------------------ 1)Disconnect Battery NEGATIVE terminal! Wrap terminal in shop towel and put it where it won’t move. 2)Remove (3) Philips-head screws under steering column to remove top half of plastic steering column cover. 3)Move steering column to lowest position. 4)Remove (2) Philips-head screws underneath top part of gauge bezel(Tach/Speedo). 5)Unsnap large electrical connector on top back portion of steering column near the gauge bezel for more clearance. 6)Pull black bezels’ lower quadrant until snaps on left and right side release. 7)Carefully pull bezel away from the dash on the LEFT side and unsnap power mirror and gauge dimmer harness. 8)Remove bezel completely. 9)Remove (3) Philips-head bolts(White) on Combination meter. 10)Carefully pull Combo meter out of dash and turn UPSIDE down to expose reverse sides’ wiring harnesses. 11)Put Dielectric grease on an universal 18-22 gauge TAP. 12)Tap the White with GREEN stripe wire on Combo meters’ left most harness down towards the Y in the wires where the foam insulation is split. Use tape to protect the wire/tap from chaffing and rattling. 13)Connect the TAP to the GREEN wire of Shift Light. 14)Run the Shift Lights’ RED and BLACK wires to the FUSE panel on lower left side of steering column. 15)Connect BLACK ground wire to bolt on car. 16)Find empty “fuse slot” in fuse block. 17)Snip SMALL amount off one leg of a SPARE 5-AMP fuse. 18)Place RED power wire on shorter leg of the fuse and push into the LOWER/BOTTOM half of the “fuse slot”. 19)Reconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal. 20)Plug in the 3000 RPM pill, start the car, rev slowly past 3000, and see that light comes on and stays on. 21)Replace the 3000 RPM pill with the correct HIGH rpm pill. 22)DO NOT LEAVE THE 3000 RPM PILL IN! The light remains on and the unit gets VERY hot. 23)Reverse steps 2-10 to reinstall gauge cluster/bezel. Last edited by Puppetmaster; 01-11-2008 at 10:34 AM.