Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Ok, this is weird but here it goes. Yesterday I went to a friends house to have my timing adjusted (because it was way out of wack). I figured that my timing might be the reason for my stalling, but now the timing is set at stock 15 degrees and the car stalls more than ever. It stalled on my 5 times on the way to work today and it usually only stalls once a week.

But, when were were hooking up a jumper wire to the cylinder 1. We found out that my ingnition coil on cylinder 2 has about a 2 inch long crack in it. ( actually the complete length of the coil) I haven't been able to check the other coils yet, but will tommorow when I'm off.

What I'm wondering is why did the car runs better when the timing was advanced way to far?

Also, does it matter if I buy aftermarket ingnition coils from Autozone instead of OEM. There's about a $25 difference.

Edit: Also, can someone tell me which coil I need for the second cylinder. Every parts store that I call keep asking me if its the right or the left. Shouldn't it be the front or the back??? And if so would the front be the left or right???

A92se?

I can't remember which way ur supposed to look at the engine to decide if it is left or right. BUT you can get your OEM part online from Richardson Nissan in TX for about $65. Call em up first and ask them about it being front or back, or one screw or two...they know what ur talking about. GL

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone had any problems with the aftermarket coils. I would probably be more likely to pick them up so that I can get this thing fixed tomorrow. Also does anyone know why this coil wasn't as effective on my performance when my timming was extremely advanced.

DARHAW-MAX

Left or Right is in relation to the engine. The front of the engine is where the belts are at. Therefore, the left of the engine is to the front of the car, whereas the right of the engine is to the rear.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Will it really make a difference it the part is OEM or aftermarket??? I can pick it up at a local dealership for $75 (the same as online after shipping) or at O'rileys for $50.99. Is it worth it to spend the extra $25 on this part to get OEM. Sorry, guys but I really need your help.
I almost got killed today on the Highway when my Max shut off while merging into traffic. I feel like I'm at the rodeo most times, the way this car is bucking.

96ItaliaSE

iTrader: (3)

yah the autozone coils have the nissan stamp and the oe numbers on them. The one that is two dollars cheaper is for the rear bank. I have 6 az coils in my white 92 ve. They come with a 90 day llt warranty and at some stores lifetime.
Mine bucked like a rodeo and when i installed the packs it went away and ran much cleaner.


1,782 miles since last stalling YEAH BABY!!!

Menel

that makes no sense to me if your dealing with the VE

the belts being the front of the engine yes, because thats how a rwd car would be

but if your looking at the belts..what is then the left side...is now in the rear

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Alright cool, I've got one on hold at autozone that I will pick up tomorrow. Thanks for the info. Now I've got to check and see if there are anymore that are bad. How many did you replace?? All of them??

subs1000w

my car had been doing that since the second day i got it at 95k and at 115k it had increased greatly so i looked at all of them and i think 4 out of 6 had small cracks so i bought 6 off ebay for like 20$ that the guy said had about 70k on them, slapped um on and it hasnt f**ked up or died since its been about 500 miles or 3 weeks and im sooooooooooo happy and relieved thats all it was

DARHAW-MAX

When you are looking at something in relation to itself, you taking on the "role" of the item. For example, the right of the engine would be as if you were the engine. You don't look at someone and say that his/her left arm is really thier right arm. You have to view it from thier perspective. The same thing goes for inanimate objects as well.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

I pulled another coil in the front and it has a 2 cracks in it (one on each side.) Is it safe to assume that any coil that I pull that has cracks on it, is faulty? Sorry, like I said I'm still new to this.

DARHAW-MAX

If a coil has a crack, it must be whack Okay, okay, enough of the bad reference jokes.

Yes, any coils that have cracks must be replaced ASAP.

96ItaliaSE

iTrader: (3)

Gjohnson. I tried replacing the three that were "cracked" i drove about 500 miles (ready to declare victory)then Buck, bang, misfire stall. So i then replaced two more and swapped the other two with used ones. this time three hundred miles and the bucking began. at this point i was convinced it wasnt a coil pack issue being that I had mathematically eliminated any faulty packs. To make along story short after i replaced all 6 and only after i replaced all six did this nonsense finally stop.

the last two packs had no cracks, no corrosion, no arching nothing(sometimes you can see a faulty pack flicker when you start your car at night and look carefully) and they were faulty. You may as well play eennyy meeennny miiinnny moah when you replace them after you checked for obvious signs.

On a non ethical note :
"IF" you goto autozone and buy two packs then go back a week later with two of your old coil packs and say they are no good and they will replace them underwarranty. Then either buy two more or repeat this process depending on how brave you are. They have no way of testing your pack to verify if its good or bad so they will have to take your word for it.

I feel so shady saying that but Id rather help a maxima driver out than feed an already wealthy fortune 200 company in autozone.

good luck!

Menel

how long do you guys think coils pakcs would last?

ive got 120kmiles I beleive on the original coils..