New PB 12.20 @ 110mph '92 SE
#1
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New PB 12.20 @ 110mph '92 SE
I made it out to the track with a full bottle. Here's the results...
The first pass, I missed 3rd because the syncros are ****ed up and I tried to power shift. The rest of my passes I didn't power shift 3rd. My second pass, it started cutting out in 4th and I let off at around the 1000' mark. I melted a plug because there was too much timing advance. My 3rd pass, I retarded the timing a couple degrees and ran a 12.20 @ 110. For every nitrous pass I made, the nitrous was set up to turn on at 3mph and ramp up from 0-100% over 0.5 seconds. My last pass was N/A. It was a 14.12 @ 93. Every pass was made with 12.0 psi of tire pressure.
Relevant Mods:
-NX jetted 150-shot
-Z32 pistons (about 12:1 CR)
-Open Y-pipe
-23x7.5 m&h slicks
-F+R limiting strap
-Removed bumper supports, trunk interior trim, spare, sway bars, misc. stuff
-Full interior
The camera that was used was kinda messed up, but here's the videos anyway.
Pass 1 (part 1+2)
The first pass, I missed 3rd because the syncros are ****ed up and I tried to power shift. The rest of my passes I didn't power shift 3rd. My second pass, it started cutting out in 4th and I let off at around the 1000' mark. I melted a plug because there was too much timing advance. My 3rd pass, I retarded the timing a couple degrees and ran a 12.20 @ 110. For every nitrous pass I made, the nitrous was set up to turn on at 3mph and ramp up from 0-100% over 0.5 seconds. My last pass was N/A. It was a 14.12 @ 93. Every pass was made with 12.0 psi of tire pressure.
Relevant Mods:
-NX jetted 150-shot
-Z32 pistons (about 12:1 CR)
-Open Y-pipe
-23x7.5 m&h slicks
-F+R limiting strap
-Removed bumper supports, trunk interior trim, spare, sway bars, misc. stuff
-Full interior
The camera that was used was kinda messed up, but here's the videos anyway.
Pass 1 (part 1+2)
Last edited by 505max94se; 05-17-2010 at 01:45 AM.
#4
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Thanks man!
Next time I'll spray it 100% right off the line. No progression. It should yield a 1.6 60' time and a 12.1 or faster. My car will also weigh a bit less next time out. I'll still keep full interior though. I might run race fuel and spray a little more if I can't get in the 11's with my current configuration. I also plan to get nano nitrous sometime soon. Should make the car quite a bit quicker. We'll see...
Oh yeah, I picked up a spare tranny today.
Next time I'll spray it 100% right off the line. No progression. It should yield a 1.6 60' time and a 12.1 or faster. My car will also weigh a bit less next time out. I'll still keep full interior though. I might run race fuel and spray a little more if I can't get in the 11's with my current configuration. I also plan to get nano nitrous sometime soon. Should make the car quite a bit quicker. We'll see...
Oh yeah, I picked up a spare tranny today.
#8
Thanks man!
Next time I'll spray it 100% right off the line. No progression. It should yield a 1.6 60' time and a 12.1 or faster. My car will also weigh a bit less next time out. I'll still keep full interior though. I might run race fuel and spray a little more if I can't get in the 11's with my current configuration. I also plan to get nano nitrous sometime soon. Should make the car quite a bit quicker. We'll see...
Oh yeah, I picked up a spare tranny today.
Next time I'll spray it 100% right off the line. No progression. It should yield a 1.6 60' time and a 12.1 or faster. My car will also weigh a bit less next time out. I'll still keep full interior though. I might run race fuel and spray a little more if I can't get in the 11's with my current configuration. I also plan to get nano nitrous sometime soon. Should make the car quite a bit quicker. We'll see...
Oh yeah, I picked up a spare tranny today.
The nano system is a great way to ensure that you have the same bottle pressure the whole time. No more bottle heaters! I hate those things lol.
Hope you hit 11s soon man! That will quite the accomplishment for the VE!
#9
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Fuel pressure drop? You mean when the nitrous first kicks in? My afr is good, but I do see lean spikes for a split second when it engages. The spikes don't bother me because they are so lean for such a short period of time, I don't think they'll do any harm.
When spraying a large shot on a single 10lb bottle, there's a huge amount pressure drop and power falls off toward the end of the run. With nano, there is little to no pressure drop. The nitrous is also cooler and denser because it isn't heated up to create optimum bottle pressure. The bottle will also last about twice as long because the entire contents will be used. With nano, you are supposed to use a slightly larger fuel jet than you normally would. It will add some power and the power will be linear all the way down the track.
You probably already know all this though.
Me too! I'm so close...
#12
video is terrible, probebly worst video quality ive seen in the past 2 years, aside from that, excellent times, car looks strong, if my car would ever shoot flames like that after a run i'd shyt bricks cause its gotta be the motor blown but i would be mad i didnt get a pic of it... good ish man, keep up the good work
#13
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video is terrible, probebly worst video quality ive seen in the past 2 years, aside from that, excellent times, car looks strong, if my car would ever shoot flames like that after a run i'd shyt bricks cause its gotta be the motor blown but i would be mad i didnt get a pic of it... good ish man, keep up the good work
The first and second video are the only ones that are really messed up. I left my camera at home and my buddy used his. He said his gf spilled water on it a couple of weeks ago and that's why it was messed up. IDK, but it's better than nothing. lol.
Yeah, the flame scared the **** out of me, but the motor still runs perfect.
#14
Couldn't agree more than that. Bottle heaters alone made me want to get rid of the nitrous setup on my camaro lol.
When spraying a large shot on a single 10lb bottle, there's a huge amount pressure drop and power falls off toward the end of the run. With nano, there is little to no pressure drop. The nitrous is also cooler and denser because it isn't heated up to create optimum bottle pressure. The bottle will also last about twice as long because the entire contents will be used. With nano, you are supposed to use a slightly larger fuel jet than you normally would. It will add some power and the power will be linear all the way down the track.
You probably already know all this though.
You probably already know all this though.
Yeah, I knew about this stuff already, but you just gave me a refresher course on the nano system. I research the hell out of nitrous systems. I help people in my area quite a bit. I'm sure it is the same for you. You know what's up!
#15
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Yeah bottle pressure drop sucks as well. The nano will hook you up for sure.
Yeah, I knew about this stuff already, but you just gave me a refresher course on the nano system. I research the hell out of nitrous systems. I help people in my area quite a bit. I'm sure it is the same for you. You know what's up!
Yeah, I knew about this stuff already, but you just gave me a refresher course on the nano system. I research the hell out of nitrous systems. I help people in my area quite a bit. I'm sure it is the same for you. You know what's up!
Last edited by 505max94se; 05-18-2010 at 12:10 AM.
#16
Maybe try a 14" nitrous line and a 8" fuel line. That might be a good combo. Only way to find out is through testing though.
#17
the lean spike is due to the nitrous getting there 1st, this happens nitrous is at a much higher psi then fuel. You have a few options:
1. purge the system at the motor
2. make the fuel line short as possible
3. lower the nitrous psi or raise the fuel psi
4. if you have a safc, e-blue or etc you can tune the controller to add more fuel for the 1st couple hundred rpms when you activate the nitrous
I always liked option 4 the best cause you have the most control
1. purge the system at the motor
2. make the fuel line short as possible
3. lower the nitrous psi or raise the fuel psi
4. if you have a safc, e-blue or etc you can tune the controller to add more fuel for the 1st couple hundred rpms when you activate the nitrous
I always liked option 4 the best cause you have the most control
Last edited by t6378tp; 05-17-2010 at 05:50 PM.
#18
the lean spike is due to the nitrous getting there 1st, this happens nitrous is at a much higher psi then fuel. You have a few options:
1. purge the system at the motor
2. make the fuel line short as possible
3. lower the nitrous psi or raise the fuel psi
4. if you have a safc, e-blue or etc you can tune the controller to add more fuel for the 1st couple hundred rpms when you activate the nitrous
I always liked option 4 the best cause you have the most control
1. purge the system at the motor
2. make the fuel line short as possible
3. lower the nitrous psi or raise the fuel psi
4. if you have a safc, e-blue or etc you can tune the controller to add more fuel for the 1st couple hundred rpms when you activate the nitrous
I always liked option 4 the best cause you have the most control
#20
#21
#23
Last time I checked nothing is cheaper than free
#24
#29
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Thanks Aaron.
Yeah, I'm doing 2nd gear burnouts. It helps a lot. 1st gear doesn't heat the slicks up near as quick and 1st gear burnouts tend to pull the car out of the water box with the e-brake still engaged. What's funny is, I think I might be able to burn out in 3rd.
Yeah, I'm doing 2nd gear burnouts. It helps a lot. 1st gear doesn't heat the slicks up near as quick and 1st gear burnouts tend to pull the car out of the water box with the e-brake still engaged. What's funny is, I think I might be able to burn out in 3rd.
#30
Thanks Aaron.
Yeah, I'm doing 2nd gear burnouts. It helps a lot. 1st gear doesn't heat the slicks up near as quick and 1st gear burnouts tend to pull the car out of the water box with the e-brake still engaged. What's funny is, I think I might be able to burn out in 3rd.
Yeah, I'm doing 2nd gear burnouts. It helps a lot. 1st gear doesn't heat the slicks up near as quick and 1st gear burnouts tend to pull the car out of the water box with the e-brake still engaged. What's funny is, I think I might be able to burn out in 3rd.
I have been thinking about making a separate shift map for my burnout. That way, I can start my burnout in 1st gear and it will instantly shift to 2nd and then stay there.
Jime blew up his transmission when he forgot to switch over to the manual mode to hold it in 1st gear. So, he went 1st, 2nd, 3rd really quick and the tires grabbed while in 3rd gear. You can burnout in a higher gear like 2nd, but you never want it to suddenly grab.
#31
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Yeah, it will definitely heat the slicks up a lot faster. For me, I stay in 1st gear (which can stretch to 50-55mph) and I do my burnout by holding it around 6K rpm, which is roughly 45mph. Sometimes I can sit there all day with my tiny 20" slicks and sometimes it starts pulling me out of the water. My burnout sometimes lasts more than 5 seconds, which is an awful lot of time. 2-3 seconds should be plenty for these MT slicks I'm using.
I have been thinking about making a separate shift map for my burnout. That way, I can start my burnout in 1st gear and it will instantly shift to 2nd and then stay there.
Jime blew up his transmission when he forgot to switch over to the manual mode to hold it in 1st gear. So, he went 1st, 2nd, 3rd really quick and the tires grabbed while in 3rd gear. You can burnout in a higher gear like 2nd, but you never want it to suddenly grab.
I have been thinking about making a separate shift map for my burnout. That way, I can start my burnout in 1st gear and it will instantly shift to 2nd and then stay there.
Jime blew up his transmission when he forgot to switch over to the manual mode to hold it in 1st gear. So, he went 1st, 2nd, 3rd really quick and the tires grabbed while in 3rd gear. You can burnout in a higher gear like 2nd, but you never want it to suddenly grab.
#32
I did a big *** burnout at my track one time, and the announcer said, "And that's how you do a front wheel drive burnout folks!"
It was awesome!
#34
Well the car is running really strong, I havent had the chance to load my higher boost map yet, I wanna change the oil first. Cant wait to take it to the track already, I envy your 60' though lol.
#35
I just ran some numbers based on your RS5F50V transmission gear ratios. With 23" OD slicks and stock rev limiter (6650), your 2nd gear can stretch to an actual 63mph. At 5K-6K in 2nd gear, you're spinning the slicks at 48-58mph.
#37
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I was mistaken. I was looking at my speed with the stock tire size. With my 20" slicks, my 1st gear only stretches to an actual 43mph. During the burnout, I'm only doing about 35mph at 6000rpm. If I shifted to 2nd gear during the burnout, they'd be doing 65-70mph.
I just ran some numbers based on your RS5F50V transmission gear ratios. With 23" OD slicks and stock rev limiter (6650), your 2nd gear can stretch to an actual 63mph. At 5K-6K in 2nd gear, you're spinning the slicks at 48-58mph.
I just ran some numbers based on your RS5F50V transmission gear ratios. With 23" OD slicks and stock rev limiter (6650), your 2nd gear can stretch to an actual 63mph. At 5K-6K in 2nd gear, you're spinning the slicks at 48-58mph.
Most of the time, I was hitting the rev limiter in 2nd gear when doing my burnouts.
When I do smaller burnouts, I get wheel spin. On my 12.20 pass, I had 100% traction. The data log shows no spikes in wheel speed. It actually bogged off the line because of my progressive nitrous setting. Next time, I'll spray it 100% off the line.
#38
Do you plan on doing another N/A run next time to appease us? Either way, still sick.
Any idea what your car weighs on race days?
#40
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I might run it again N/A. It would probably run a little faster if raise the tire pressure and slip the clutch instead of dump it. It's so boring when I run it N/A. lol.
It probably weighs about 3000-3100 with me in it, but that's just a guess. I weigh 210 lbs (6'5").