1/4 and 1/8 Mile RacingTalk about track times, launch techniques, strategies, etc. Check out the "Timeslips" subforum for posted times.No discussion of street racing will be tolerated.
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I got in about 12 or 13 runs. I have some winter tires on the car and they suck. 2.30 60 foot.
Best run 13.78 at 104.126 mph. Most runs were 1mid 14's@102-105 mph. Went 14.48 at 105.568 mph spinning badly. Went a bunch of 14.4's at 102-104. Also good 13.93@103.66 mph 2.31 60 foot. And 14.07@102.80 with a 2.53 60 foot. Track was cold. Almost no muscle cars, just a test and tune.
The car obviously has good power to be trapping 105. I removed the pass seat and some other stuff. AC, and the 3.5 is lighter than the 3.0 by 35 pounds.
Going back next weekend for a 13.5 on street tires. Should trap 106.
I also want to mention that I am using the OEM 4th gen clutch. I like it way better than my old 6-puck, much more driveable. I scored a 2004 Alti engine for 700 bucks. Threw it in in my driveway, drilled the stock 3.5 intake cams in a retarded position (welded all 4 dowel pins to the cams for more safety) and removed the butterfly valve in the intake. Im confident it will trap 106
Y-pipe + 2.5" Cattman catback. It's untuned and runs pig rich. Car weights 2840 in street trim - I weight 160. The 5-speed is VLSD and has 130,000 km on it. Engine has 66,000 km.
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SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
so you said the car will trap 106 next time? what will you be doing different to make this happen? just more practice? just curious what things you will tweak as i want to get better myself!
do you plan on SSIM and EU ? should definitely trap 107+ i would think
good luck next week!
__________________ Current Mods: 3.5 Swap, EU, Full exhaust
Nice runs. Can't wait to see what it does after tune. Keep us posted.
__________________ 321VQ35MAX - 03 Black 6spd T.E - Injen CAI-Tein S Tech Springs - Tokico Illuminas - Clear Markers- ES Shifter bushings - ES subframe bushings - ES mount inserts
U know that some se's didnt have abs, I have two that dont. Good runs also.
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97 SE Auto Built Auto
97 SE Holset HX52|N2O|6 SP|Built 3.56|More to come
91 GXE Auto bone stock beater
91 GXE 5sp Another beater
Led retro's Pm me
Nice runs. Can't wait to see what it does after tune. Keep us posted.
I dont plan on tuning it anytime soon. Maybe not even this year. But I will remove more weight because I think it has a 13.5 in it as it sits untuned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kzoosho
U know that some se's didnt have abs, I have two that dont. Good runs also.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I use 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 25. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
.
I will have to look at one of mine to be sure but i think it does have all 4. Let me double check today and i can let you know.
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97 SE Auto Built Auto
97 SE Holset HX52|N2O|6 SP|Built 3.56|More to come
91 GXE Auto bone stock beater
91 GXE 5sp Another beater
Led retro's Pm me
I dont plan on tuning it anytime soon. Maybe not even this year. But I will remove more weight because I think it has a 13.5 in it as it sits untuned.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I mix 91 and 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
There, I got it out of my system.
Mmmmm, guess that why Jime mounts his to the firewall or fender or somewhere I forget
I know is said sometime but not wanting the ecu messing with his timing, good info. So is it that the ecu does not provide a good enough ground
__________________ My Cardomain _ _Maxima runs 13.4@109
Dyno:? whp & ? wtq
Nitrous PB: 13.4@110mph
All Motor PB: 14.0@99mph
3280lb with driver, full trim, rims, spare, jack, fluids, etc & notorized proof
I dont plan on tuning it anytime soon. Maybe not even this year. But I will remove more weight because I think it has a 13.5 in it as it sits untuned.
Can you just tell me one thing - does the non-ABS master cylinder have all 4 lines directly plugging into it? The ABS master cylinder only has 2 lines going from the master to the ABS module, then 4 lines come out of the ABS module.
I should also mention that all 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. I mix 91 and 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
There, I got it out of my system.
Is this referring to the full 3.5/ECU swap or those with 3.0 timing? because in my case, im running 3.0 timing equipment including knock sensor n stock 3.0 harness, and i get full timing (about 23 degree's WOT) all the time. Again, in MY case.
Good info on the knock sensor - I've noticed some timing "jitter" - not often but it has happened.
Nice to see you back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Welcome back Stephan..
Thanks guys!
Quote:
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Is this referring to the full 3.5/ECU swap or those with 3.0 timing? because in my case, im running 3.0 timing equipment including knock sensor n stock 3.0 harness, and i get full timing (about 23 degree's WOT) all the time. Again, in MY case.
Yeah it depends on a lot of things - but anyone experiencing intermittent timing should do that. It's no fun driving the car when it's like that.
I'm not hitting the track again until 2 weeks from now, few things to take care of...
I just finished changing the stupid 95 rattle recall tensionner (FU!) and removing power steering cause it was pissing all over the place. I am NOT paying for a PS pump.
nice traps! I thought the OEM 4th gen clutch wouldn't hold the torque of a modified 3.5 though. Whats your opinion about that? I was afradi to go with a Exedy Stage 1 because I didnt think it would hold.
Last edited by chillin014; 05-15-2009 at 08:41 AM.
Get the 2001 clutch. Maxima 2001 5-speed, Production after November 2000 - straight from the dealer. It's got more surface area and 235 lbs more clamp force. Nissan uses it as stock but it's made by Exedy.
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1995 SE VQ35 5-speed - untuned
13.680@104.544 stock tires off idle 2.13 60 foot
2.022 Best 60 foot on stock tires
14.481@105.568 Best MPH
thats what I've got on there right now but I was worried it may be reaching its limits after a few more modifications. You are saying it will hold over 300 ft lbs though?!?
Weighed car March 31st - Stock + Y-pipe & Catback - 3000 lbs flat with a quarter tank
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
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1995 SE VQ35 5-speed - untuned
13.680@104.544 stock tires off idle 2.13 60 foot
2.022 Best 60 foot on stock tires
14.481@105.568 Best MPH
Weighed car March 31st - Stock + Y-pipe & Catback - 3000 lbs flat with a quarter tank
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
Damn, that thing is light!
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04 6 speed || Intake and 3" exhaust
SHIFT_faster than you can
8.7@80mph
Thinking about coming for the Battle of the Provinces. Just wondering if they have overnight camping for sat night. Long drive to get up early sunday and then race and drive home.
PS I am working on a version of your CAI idea, will show you sunday.
Weighed car March 31st - Stock + Y-pipe & Catback - 3000 lbs flat with a quarter tank
2940 - Removed Spare + 20 lbs of carpeting and junk
2910 - 3.5 weighs about 30 pounds less than the 3.0L
2870 - Removed both bumper supports
2840 - Removed Sway bar & power steering
2835 - Removed rear passenger door window motor and stuff
2794 - Removed both airbags + Cut half of the support beam in the dash
You still need to leave the driver side part of the beam that holds the steering column
2794 lbs - weighted the car at aluminum recycler
Other things I did not do:
2775 lbs - Non-ABS Master cylinder (ABS module weighs 20 lbs)
2740 lbs - Remove passenger seat (35 lbs) TRACK ONLY
2720 lbs - Empty the rest of the rear doors
2693 lbs - 27 lbs Optima battery
At that weight the car still has NO CF ALL STEEL, a heater, FULL INTERIOR, and a functional electric moonroof - love that way too much to touch it.
Wow the 3.5L weighs 30lbs less than the 3.0L!? I didn't know that!
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-2003 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe
Injen CAI, Magnaflow Cat-Back
3272lbs @ SIR
_
Linear Mode
