15.205 best time, with 4.5 gen auto....

[SleepyMax1]

Well we went to a Track and Tune, at our local race track. I decided I wanted to see what the car had with/without the codes it was throwing:

Originally Posted by SleepyMax1

Ok finally pulled codes while working on the car:
I got a crap load, kinda of concerns me; tell me what you guys think

0504 Automatic Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU
0802 Crank Position Sensor
0205 Idle Speed Control
0401 Intake Air Temp Sensor
0407 Crankshaft Position sensor (reference)
0801 Vacuum cut balve bypass valve
0703 Three Way Catalyst (left bank)
0902 Undefined
0903 EVAP Canister vent control valve
1005 EGRC Solenoid valve
1008 EVAP canister purge volume control valve
1302 MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve
0803 Absolute Pressure Sensor
1101 Inhibitor Switch

Only modifications the car has, are as followed:

95 GLE
Automatic
3.5 swap w/Cel
Tranny Cooler
Cattman Headers (after the y-pipe, its all stock exhaust)
Slight Weight Reduction (no back seats, no backseat plate, spare, jack)
DIY Ram Intake
DR Mod

Runs are as followed:

1st run, (left lane) I held the brake, kept the RPM's around 1500 maybe a bit less... tires didnt hook til the very end of the run (they just spun). I did experince wheel hop

Reaction: .046
I1 : 2.879
I2 : 8.420
I3 : 12.414
MPH : 64.963
I4 :
E.T. : 18.144
MPH : 86.157
Over/Under 18.144
Win Margin:

2nd run, (left lane) I held the brake, kept the RPM's around 1000 this time... when the tree went green, i punched it... wheels spun all of 1st gear, then finally hooked on 2nd...

Reaction: .387
I1 : 2.436
I2 : 6.591
I3 : 9.967
MPH : 73.261
I4 :
E.T. : 15.400
MPH : 91.167
Over/Under 15.400
Win Margin:

3rd run, (left lane) i pretty much slightly gassed off the line, and then punched it... I did do the DR mod on this run.

Reaction: .290
I1 : 2.367
I2 : 6.513
I3 : 9.887
MPH : 73.223
I4 :
E.T. : 15.299
MPH : 91.142
Over/Under: 15.299
Win Margin: .277

The first 3 runs I made, where pretty much made as soon as I got there... I drove 45mins to get to the track, and was a bit excited, i just got a parking spot, headed for the tech inspection, and went straight for the track... after the dissappointing runs... I parked the car for about 30mins and placed a bag of ice on the intake manifold.

4th run,(left lane) kept it pretty much the same as the 3rd run, DR mod, nothing else

Reaction: .340
I1 : 2.262
I2 : 6.406
I3 : 9.790
MPH : 72.843
I4 :
E.T. : 15.206
MPH : 91.340
Over/Under 15.206
Win Margin: 1.010

5th and finale run for the night, didnt want to change anything... so I kept it the same, as the following two before. Only thing that did change was i was now on the right lane.

Reaction: .140
I1 : 2.254
I2 : 6.430
I3 : 9.828
MPH : 72.896
I4 :
E.T. : 15.289
MPH :
Over/Under: 15.289
Win Margin: 1.581

It was a bit dissapointing, I was hoping high 14's - mid 14's motor. Tires are some general exclaim brand probably all season. Thru most of my runs, 1st gear would spin, once 2nd fell in, I was moving.. I wanted to do a base run on this car, and see what it ran... As I add mods, I want to take to the track each time and see if there is any difference. I personally feel that with some Drag Radials, or Slicks the car can be a high 14 easily. I plan to get an LSD like phantom grip or real quaife. What do you guys recommend.. I do plan to redo the exhaust to a full straight 2.5" or possibly a 2.5" cutout (i'm over the daily loud exhaust), NWP spacer is another, I have JWT S1 Cams sitting around... LC-1 and a "piggyback" are also planned. I want to run the car on motor and N20. Give me ideas, advice, etc... On a side note... I do plan to fix the codes ASAP, the oxygen ones are no biggie, and so are the vaccum lines.. the CPS is the one that worries me..

[SleepyMax1]

[t6378tp]

the car is down on power your trap should be alot higher

[Jime]

Something no right there. You should be in the 13's at over 100 mph minimum with that setup.

I would figure out the crank codes first, that is probably where you are having the problem. Most of the other codes aren't going to make any performance problems.

If you can, with an OBDII reader etc monitor the timing, I think you will fine its in the low teens and causing the performance loss.

I used to run mine occasionally with the knock sensor unplugged and thats about how much it would knock the time and mph down.

Jim

[321VQ35MAX]

With all those codes, there is no telling how it is holding your car back. My 98 Maxima 5 speed with Cai, headers and exhaust ran 15.0 @ 93 mph. So your car has the potential. Fix the codes and lets see how it does, I am sure that you will see a big difference. Good luck.

[witeonblakmax]

yea that is alot of codes..hopefully you get that all straightened out

[SleepyMax1]

Here are some short vids my sweet girlfriend took with the Flip:

This is the 1st run... I wasnt moving... tires where just slipping





The 2nd run





This is the 3rd run..




This is 4th run...




This is the 5th and final run.

[Grand_hustle17]

that was well

[JClaw]

Do yourself a big favor:

All 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.

I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. Use GOOD GAS ONLY. I use 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.

Reset your ECU and drive it around for 200-300 miles.