Rubber studs to block rear springs

[JClaw]

Does anyone know where we can buy rubber studs to block the rear springs to counter weight transfer for the max when at the track?

[Aaron92SE]

Originally Posted by JClaw

Does anyone know where we can buy rubber studs to block the rear springs to counter weight transfer for the max when at the track?

Jegs, Summit, etc.

But I got mine at Discount Auto aka Advanced. I've seen them at Pep Boys too. Get the rubber spacers and get the front spring lockers if you are serious!

[JClaw]

Jime said the front spring lockers weren't really worth it.

How much of a difference do you think the rear spring blocks made in the 1/4? A tenth?

[JClaw]

I searched around on yahoo.com alot and I can't find anything with the combinaisions you mentionned. Hell I even checked for a 92 SE like yours instead of my 95 SE and couldn't find jack. I remember seeing a picture of those things, but it was REALLY long ago.

[Aaron92SE]

Originally Posted by JClaw

I searched around on yahoo.com alot and I can't find anything with the combinaisions you mentionned. Hell I even checked for a 92 SE like yours instead of my 95 SE and couldn't find jack. I remember seeing a picture of those things, but it was REALLY long ago.

No, they are uninversal. You can usually find them in the spring compressor section of an auto parts store. As for the spring lockers, I don't see why Jime would put these down b/c all they do is keep the front end of your car from rising.

There are WAY too many variables in order for me to say how much you will shave in the 1/4 mile. It could make you slower, or it could make you a full second faster if traction is your problem solely b/c of poor suspension setup.

If you don't want to use those spring lockers I found, use 150-200 lb tensile strength zip ties. You can find them at Home Depot. They are really long. You wrap them around your coils as many times as you can. I'd say put 5-8 of those huge zip ties on each of the front springs.

I haven't used my spring lockers yet, but I will install them when I am ready to go drag racing with my DRs. They are a cheap way to set up your suspension just for the drag strip. I didn't want to go out and buy slicks, I thought I'd try a better suspension before I spend all that money. Right now, I launch without a single chirp on my drag radials. But since my last track visit, I've probably gained 15hp and shaved about 170 lbs off my car. So traction might become a problem. I am doing the spring lockers and the rubber boosters for that added help on the launch.

[JClaw]

Yeah my 60' sucked when I ran stock last year (15.003@91, 2.264 60'), and now I'm expecting about 100 hp more at the crank so out the window goes the traction.

[Aaron92SE]

Originally Posted by JClaw

Yeah my 60' sucked when I ran stock last year (15.003@91, 2.264 60'), and now I'm expecting about 100 hp more at the crank so out the window goes the traction.

Traction is not an issue. If a 5000 HP dragster can gain traction, you can to. Just set up your suspension and get slicks. Not a problem! 2.26 isn't bad for a stock VQ 5spd. In fact, it's better than 95% of the stock VQ 5spd 60 foot times on normal street tires. I recommend that you get properly sized slicks to give you the gearing you need. And if you still hop the slicks or spin them, then set up your suspension.

If you want to remain with street tires, get the stickiest, nicest street tires money can buy. Drag radials or Toyo T1-S. Then set up the suspension so that your rear does not drop at all and your front does not rise at all. Also, you don't want your motor to move either. So either strap it down with a chain or strap or get some really stiff motor mounts. Or both.

[JClaw]

I bought PR motor mounts and a FSB. They will get installed when the VQ35 goes in.

I stopped by at Canadian Tire today and bought two sets. They look like "3" or "E" rubber parts, depending on which way you look at them. I tried them and they fit without needing to jack the car.

Each set has two of them, so I'll put one on each side of the springs. That should help.

I'll see what I can do on street tires and go from there. I will definately buy either 22" or 24.5" slicks this summer, as I am sure the clutchnet 6-puck will handle it.

[Aaron92SE]

Originally Posted by JClaw

I bought PR motor mounts and a FSB. They will get installed when the VQ35 goes in.

I stopped by at Canadian Tire today and bought two sets. They look like "3" or "E" rubber parts, depending on which way you look at them. I tried them and they fit without needing to jack the car.

Each set has two of them, so I'll put one on each side of the springs. That should help.

I'll see what I can do on street tires and go from there. I will definately buy either 22" or 24.5" slicks this summer, as I am sure the clutchnet 6-puck will handle it.

If they fit without jacking up the car, they are too small. They will fall out. Each seen several occasions where they don't work if they are too small. Mine are actually so big that you have to jack up the car and then you can BARELY fit them. They are 1 3/4" long. I had to return a set back to the store that I couldn't get to fit that was 2" in length. All the ones I've seen are made of rubber and are shaped like an "H". The coils on your coil spring fit on each side of the "H".

[JClaw]

Do yours fit between only two rods?

I saw others that were the equivalent of an entire turn (360 degrees). You could choose between 1", 1.5" and 2". But then again, I dont know how it could work if it only blocks between two rods.

The springs have like 5 or 6 entire turns, so does it work even if you only block one turn with a 1.5" spacer?

I have two for each side, piled up on top of one another and there's no way the rear could drop with two of these on top of one another.

Oh, and by the way, do you jack the car up at your place, put the spacers in and drive to the track? Or bring the jack at the track? Ride must be a b*tch.

EDIT: I just checked the back of the package, and it actually says to jack the car! But mine fit without jacking the car. What the f*ck?

Mine look alot like those, but with 3 "arms" instead of 4.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...=si&img=125532

[Aaron92SE]

Originally Posted by JClaw

Do yours fit between only two rods?

I saw others that were the equivalent of an entire turn (360 degrees). You could choose between 1", 1.5" and 2". But then again, I dont know how it could work if it only blocks between two rods.

The springs have like 5 or 6 entire turns, so does it work even if you only block one turn with a 1.5" spacer?

I have two for each side, piled up on top of one another and there's no way the rear could drop with two of these on top of one another.

Oh, and by the way, do you jack the car up at your place, put the spacers in and drive to the track? Or bring the jack at the track? Ride must be a b*tch.

EDIT: I just checked the back of the package, and it actually says to jack the car! But mine fit without jacking the car. What the f*ck?

Mine look alot like those, but with 3 "arms" instead of 4.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...=si&img=125532

Oh man, I've never seen those. But they sound like the wrong size. Make sure they don't fall out.

I just put them in once I'm at the track. I have to put my track wheels on anyway.

Mine are shaped like an H. So you only install 2 per coil spring. The rear will drop a little with mine, but they help raise the rear a lot! The biggest gain will come from keeping the front end from rising. That is really where you'll lose most of the traction.

[JClaw]

So you have TWO 1 3/4 inch "H" shaped rubber studs PER SPRING? Wow. That rear end must be REAL high.

I'll look into those zip ties for the front. They sell 250 lbs resistance ones I think. Here I was thinking about having someone push down on the springs a little so I can make sure it never extends above the normal height when I install them.

If not, what do those spring lockers you were talking about look like? Ideally I would only install rear rubber studs and front blockers at the track and then take them off, rather than just taking off the rubber studs and keeping the zip ties on 24/7.

BTW, what are you aiming for this year? 13.99?

[jtkz13]

I looked into spring isolators last season when I was disspointed with my 60's in my Acura (CL-S). Did you notice any significant improvement in weight transfer decrease, or did it spin/hop just as bad? The only thing I dont understand is exactly how the rubber keeps the spring from compressing. I mean, one coil pushes down on the rubber and eventually the rubber will not compress any more. At that point wont the rubber transfer the energy to the coil underneath it, and thus still allow the rear end to compress? Does it just reduce the coil travel by absorbing SOME of the energy? And if you eliminated all of the the weight transfer, wouldnt it be nearly improssible for the front springs to unload, thus keeping the tires in better contact? What would the need for spring lockers be if you resolved the weight transfer?

Just curious, tell me if I confused anyone. lol

[Aaron92SE]

Originally Posted by JClaw

So you have TWO 1 3/4 inch "H" shaped rubber studs PER SPRING? Wow. That rear end must be REAL high.

I'll look into those zip ties for the front. They sell 250 lbs resistance ones I think. Here I was thinking about having someone push down on the springs a little so I can make sure it never extends above the normal height when I install them.

If not, what do those spring lockers you were talking about look like? Ideally I would only install rear rubber studs and front blockers at the track and then take them off, rather than just taking off the rubber studs and keeping the zip ties on 24/7.

BTW, what are you aiming for this year? 13.99?

Yes, I have two 1 3/4" H shaped boosters in the rear. It only raises the rear end by 1 3/4". You put two per spring to balance it.

If I can get this ZEMulator project working perfectly in my Maxima, then 13s would be VERY possible if I can get a 60 degree or better night. But it's not looking like I will be able to get this ECU tuned before the weather starts warming up in Florida. So I will just run with what I got and see if I can get 14.2s or better.

[Aaron92SE]

Originally Posted by jtkz13

I looked into spring isolators last season when I was disspointed with my 60's in my Acura (CL-S). Did you notice any significant improvement in weight transfer decrease, or did it spin/hop just as bad? The only thing I dont understand is exactly how the rubber keeps the spring from compressing. I mean, one coil pushes down on the rubber and eventually the rubber will not compress any more. At that point wont the rubber transfer the energy to the coil underneath it, and thus still allow the rear end to compress? Does it just reduce the coil travel by absorbing SOME of the energy? And if you eliminated all of the the weight transfer, wouldnt it be nearly improssible for the front springs to unload, thus keeping the tires in better contact? What would the need for spring lockers be if you resolved the weight transfer?

Just curious, tell me if I confused anyone. lol

I haven't run at the track yet with these boosters or spring lockers. The rubber spacer in the rear raises the rear end and eliminates one coil on that spring that can compress. If you installed them, you'll see that the spring can only compress a very tiny bit. That will keep the rear end from dropping a lot. It will still drop a little bit though.

As for the spring lockers, you'll need them b/c the rear boosters won't SOLVE your weight transfer issues. Your front end will still want to rise a lot! So you need to keep the front end from moving in order to keep as much weight over the drive tires as humally possible. The more your front end moves, the less weight is over your front tires and the more you will spin.

And if you eliminated all of the the weight transfer, wouldnt it be nearly improssible for the front springs to unload, thus keeping the tires in better contact?

I don't know what you mean by this statement. You don't want the front springs to unload. You want them to stay where they are during the launch. If the front end stays still, then you will have the best launch you can ask for. Many serious FWD drag racers use wheelie bars (constantly touch the ground) to keep the car launching flat!

[JClaw]

What do the front sping lockers look like?

[jtkz13]

What I'm saying Aaron, is that if the rear springs cannot compress at all how is it possible for the front to raise up?

I plan on trying some in the rear and see if that helps at all. I alreayd have dr's, but I was only able to get 60's in themid 2.2's. I need to address the wheelhop, which I'm sure is caused by the spring unloading due to weight transfer. I have stiffer springs & tokico illumina's that should help a little. I know the rear shocks should be set at full firm, but what about the fronts? The Illumina's adjust rebound also, so should those be set at full firm also?

[SonicDust187]

JClaw, when you get these, tell me which size you get. I am still on stock suspension and I wheel hop like crazy, so I would like to install these spacers in the back. I have 250lb tensil zipties waiting to go into the front. Also, how bad is it to drive with the spacers and zipties on during normal street driving?

[JClaw]

For wheel hop get urethane motor mounts. Those kill wheel hop. I don't think the rubber studs will do that much for wheel hop.

[SonicDust187]

Still tell me which rear blocks you get.

[Jime]

If you want to go the cheapie route the best setup for the rear is to cut those rubber spacers and wrap them individually around the shock rod and hold them in place with a clamp, I had to put 3 of them in on each side to keep the rear end from compressing. Even at that it will still compress a a bit and the front will still rise so doing the front as well will help but the rear is the biggest problem.

I stopped using that setup because I bought the Illumina's and they drastically reduce compression and rebound so I get the same 60' just but setting them both to their stiffest position. Besides it was a major pain each race day installing and removing them and I am getting old and lazy.

[JClaw]

Originally Posted by SonicDust187

Still tell me which rear blocks you get.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...d=si&img=125532

They look alot like that, "E"-shaped. 20$ for 4 at Canadian Rubber

[JClaw]

Originally Posted by Jime

I stopped using that setup because I bought the Illumina's and they drastically reduce compression and rebound so I get the same 60' just but setting them both to their stiffest position. Besides it was a major pain each race day installing and removing them and I am getting old and lazy.

Lol. You sound like my dad. I told him not to get a trailer queen as he complains about the trailer, strapping/unstrapping but he wanted to get his 8.9 pass before going back to streetable cars.

How much do you think those rubber studs shaved off your 60' compared to without them on the stock springs? I don't have the money for the Illuminas right now.

Also I remember you posting a pic a while ago, do you still have it?

[hacim105]

To strap the engine down where would you connect to, to strap it down?

[Jime]

Originally Posted by JClaw

Lol. You sound like my dad. I told him not to get a trailer queen as he complains about the trailer, strapping/unstrapping but he wanted to get his 8.9 pass before going back to streetable cars.

How much do you think those rubber studs shaved off your 60' compared to without them on the stock springs? I don't have the money for the Illuminas right now.

Also I remember you posting a pic a w