1/4 and 1/8 Mile Racing Talk about track times, launch techniques, strategies, etc. Check out the "Timeslips" subforum for posted times.No discussion of street racing will be tolerated.

Tire wheel combo

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-22-2004, 10:58 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Drjmaxx88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 694
Tire wheel combo

Im lookin for the lighest tire/wheel combo for 15 inch rims.
I know there are lightweight rims the lowest i've been able to find are ASA AR1's. Anyone running lightweight rims let me here what you have.
Drjmaxx88 is offline  
Old 07-22-2004, 02:41 PM
  #2  
Old Maxima Legend
iTrader: (16)
 
Ceasars Chariot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Paraparaumu, NZ
Posts: 6,069
ssr competitions check tirerack.com for weight im thinking 9.6 lbs, toyo proxes t1-s is a light tire.

check www.machiii.net the rota subzeros are cheap and light, 15's are 450 shipped
Ceasars Chariot is offline  
Old 07-22-2004, 04:40 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
bruteMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 409
grrr... don't mention rota again.

I ordered my 17x7.5 subzeroes on jun 17th and I'm still rolling on my stock 15" steelies.

Anyone check their website(s) - rotawheel.com and rotawheels.com ? Are these not "gee I'm 12 and just learned html" creations?

After a month of being jerked around being told "oh yeah it'll be there by end of week no problem" I said **** it and got my deposit back and went with the guys that got me my T1-S's (which have been sitting in their garage for a month now ). So instead of rotas (cuz they both depend on the same supplier) I went with oz supperleggeras 17x8 in matt tuner silver. About $100cdn more per rim ( ) but apparently 1lb lighter, and stronger than the rotas.

If I don't get jerked around again be strutting my cardomain site in a week!
bruteMax is offline  
Old 07-22-2004, 09:57 PM
  #4  
STFU n00b!
iTrader: (44)
 
Matt93SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston
Posts: 18,095
If you plan on doing any hard driving with these wheels (drag, auto X, road course, etc), then I highly recommend you stay away from Rota. they're very light, but they're also weak.
Matt93SE is offline  
Old 07-23-2004, 06:01 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
bruteMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 409
can't see how going to the strip puts any undue stress on the wheels - there's no bumps and you're only going in a straight line. But since I'm not getting rota's anymore I guess it's a moot point.
bruteMax is offline  
Old 07-23-2004, 06:30 AM
  #6  
STFU n00b!
iTrader: (44)
 
Matt93SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston
Posts: 18,095
Ummm, launching off the line puts the most stress on the car than ANY form of racing. you have more traction there than anywhere else- street or track, and you're putting down the power as fast and hard as you can.
when you launch at the dragstrip, there are several thousand pounds of torque applied to the wheels all the way through 1st gear, and a slightly smaller number when you hit 2nd.

there's no shock from hitting potholes, no... but there is a LOT of stress involved in drag racing.
Matt93SE is offline  
Old 07-23-2004, 08:30 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Drjmaxx88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 694
So matt93se are you using stronger axles? I've heard of some of the newer gens using them. I just don't know how many are drag racing.

The lightest rim I found was 15lbs. Is that about right or could I go lower without worrying about destroying my wheels?
Drjmaxx88 is offline  
Old 07-23-2004, 05:22 PM
  #8  
STFU n00b!
iTrader: (44)
 
Matt93SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston
Posts: 18,095
15lb for what size?
for a 17" that's about the lightest you'll want to go. some of the forged wheels (SSR comp, 5Zigen FN01R) are just under 15lb each in 17x8"..

for a 15" wheel, you should be able to get much lighter than that. around 9-10lb.
look at stock mazda millenia wheels. they're like 9lb each or something like that, and pretty strong.

Axles? I do road racing more than anything, and I'm still not boosted, so the stock axles are fine for me. when I finish the turbo, that may be another story, but I'm not worrying about it until I snap one.
Matt93SE is offline  
Old 07-24-2004, 12:16 AM
  #9  
Way out West
iTrader: (11)
 
Cliff Clavin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,565
Aaron92SE has the Millenia wheels on his car for racing.

I just got a set of Centerline RPM wheels. They are forged and the 17x7s are 13.5 lbs. I think the 15s are around 10 lbs, but they aren't listed on wheelweights.net and Centerline doesn't put the weight on their website.

I think Racing Hart makes some 15s that are around 9 lbs., same with Volk and SSRs.

You have an 88? Will 14s fit on there? There are probably some super light 14s with your 4 bolt pattern easily found.
Cliff Clavin is offline  
Old 07-25-2004, 10:35 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Drjmaxx88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 694
yeah im looking for the 15" 4-bolt pattern. 9-10lbs... are they forged or 2-3 piece?

Thanx for the link!
Drjmaxx88 is offline  
Old 07-28-2004, 11:58 PM
  #11  
NWP Engineering.com
iTrader: (128)
 
Aaron92SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Walstonburg, NC
Posts: 14,066
I use Millenia wheels. They are 11lbs and 15x6. Here is a pic:



I highly recommend them for drag racing if you don't mind the 6" width wheel.
Aaron92SE is offline  
Old 07-29-2004, 06:54 AM
  #12  
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
 
I30tMikeD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I use Millenia wheels. They are 11lbs and 15x6. Here is a pic:



I highly recommend them for drag racing if you don't mind the 6" width wheel.
Glad you posted that pic. I sold my slicks, but kept my millenia wheels and plan to get DR for them. I assume those are the 205/50/15's? So there is no fitment problem on the 6" wide rim? Do you heat up the DR's before your runs? Do you know how much the DR weigh?
I30tMikeD is offline  
Old 07-29-2004, 10:08 AM
  #13  
NWP Engineering.com
iTrader: (128)
 
Aaron92SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Walstonburg, NC
Posts: 14,066
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Glad you posted that pic. I sold my slicks, but kept my millenia wheels and plan to get DR for them. I assume those are the 205/50/15's? So there is no fitment problem on the 6" wide rim? Do you heat up the DR's before your runs? Do you know how much the DR weigh?
Yes, they are 205/50R15 23" OD. Yes, there are no fitment issues at all. Yes, I need to heat them up for about 2 to 3 seconds. The drag radials weigh 18lbs and the Millenia wheels weigh 11lbs. I weighed them seperately and then I weighed them mounted together... 29lbs total.

My previous tires on these rims were Toyo T1-S that weighed 16llbs. They were 195/45R15 22.0" OD which made for some nice gearing, but my traction wasn't exactly where I wanted it to be when I bracket race.

I want to launch without a chirp when I bracket race in Vegas. I had to get DOT approved tires and the DRs were sufficient for the traction I needed. I do not heat them up when I bracket race since I only run high 15s in this high elevation and 100 degree temps. But when I ran my 14.57 with the 2.17 60', I had to heat them up and I was able to launch without a single chirp of the tires. But, before I learned how to heat them up sufficiently, they would chirp a few times and I could only get 2.21s. With the T1-S tires, I can still get low 2.2s since I don't much low end power. VLSD helps too.

But for you, you will definitely have to do a good 3 second burnout. You definitely have a lot more power going to the wheels on the launch than I do. Before you get DRs, check out the 225/50R15 size and see if they will fit on the Millenia wheels. You probably need as much traction as you can get. Plus, the size that I have, 23" OD, might be a little too small for you. Unless you want to be deeper in 4th gear when you go through the traps.

Oh yeah, here's a pic of my Toyo T1-S 195/45R15 if you care:

Aaron92SE is offline  
Old 07-29-2004, 05:40 PM
  #14  
I'm nutty for Nissans
iTrader: (46)
 
JSutter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Maine
Posts: 10,338
mmmm the millenia wheels wont work for Drjmaxx88....too bad. K1's are a nice light wheel too.

On a side note, I have 89 GXE wheels (16lbs) with a 205/65/15 tire...combo is 33lbs. We'll see how they do tomorrow.
JSutter is offline  
Old 07-29-2004, 10:08 PM
  #15  
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
 
I30tMikeD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Yes, they are 205/50R15 23" OD. Yes, there are no fitment issues at all. Yes, I need to heat them up for about 2 to 3 seconds. The drag radials weigh 18lbs and the Millenia wheels weigh 11lbs. I weighed them seperately and then I weighed them mounted together... 29lbs total.

My previous tires on these rims were Toyo T1-S that weighed 16llbs. They were 195/45R15 22.0" OD which made for some nice gearing, but my traction wasn't exactly where I wanted it to be when I bracket race.

I want to launch without a chirp when I bracket race in Vegas. I had to get DOT approved tires and the DRs were sufficient for the traction I needed. I do not heat them up when I bracket race since I only run high 15s in this high elevation and 100 degree temps. But when I ran my 14.57 with the 2.17 60', I had to heat them up and I was able to launch without a single chirp of the tires. But, before I learned how to heat them up sufficiently, they would chirp a few times and I could only get 2.21s. With the T1-S tires, I can still get low 2.2s since I don't much low end power. VLSD helps too.

But for you, you will definitely have to do a good 3 second burnout. You definitely have a lot more power going to the wheels on the launch than I do. Before you get DRs, check out the 225/50R15 size and see if they will fit on the Millenia wheels. You probably need as much traction as you can get. Plus, the size that I have, 23" OD, might be a little too small for you. Unless you want to be deeper in 4th gear when you go through the traps.

Oh yeah, here's a pic of my Toyo T1-S 195/45R15 if you care:


I also now have 4 stock I30 BBS 14lb rims I am not using. They are 6.5" wide so I could fit the 225/50/15 on them. What do you think is better...205/50/15's on 11lbs rims or 225/50/15's on 14lb rims. I think the lighter combo would be the better choice since I am not putting down *that* much power.
I30tMikeD is offline  
Old 07-29-2004, 11:46 PM
  #16  
NWP Engineering.com
iTrader: (128)
 
Aaron92SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Walstonburg, NC
Posts: 14,066
Aren't you a VQ 5spd i30? If so, then DEFINITELY 225s and heavier wheels. You need as much traction as you can possibly get. You've had slicks before, right? If so, then why are you changing? Slicks are perfect for you.

If you were a VE Auto, then I'd say 205s b/c traction isn't ever an issue, plus, you need all the help you can get.

If you had a VQ auto, then I'd say 225s since traction is an issue for those.

But, you should know that slicks own all.
Aaron92SE is offline  
Old 07-30-2004, 05:40 AM
  #17  
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
 
I30tMikeD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Aren't you a VQ 5spd i30? If so, then DEFINITELY 225s and heavier wheels. You need as much traction as you can possibly get. You've had slicks before, right? If so, then why are you changing? Slicks are perfect for you.

If you were a VE Auto, then I'd say 205s b/c traction isn't ever an issue, plus, you need all the help you can get.

If you had a VQ auto, then I'd say 225s since traction is an issue for those.

But, you should know that slicks own all.
Yes, VQ 5spd. I did have slicks but sold them last week. I tied out the slicks once but burnt my clutch up bad, it was probably driver error more than anything. But I don't think my clutch could handle them. I also needed some quick money since I was buying a new motor, cattman headers, and new wheels all in one week. So I think I will give DR a try.
I30tMikeD is offline  
Old 07-30-2004, 09:54 AM
  #18  
NWP Engineering.com
iTrader: (128)
 
Aaron92SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Walstonburg, NC
Posts: 14,066
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Yes, VQ 5spd. I did have slicks but sold them last week. I tied out the slicks once but burnt my clutch up bad, it was probably driver error more than anything. But I don't think my clutch could handle them. I also needed some quick money since I was buying a new motor, cattman headers, and new wheels all in one week. So I think I will give DR a try.
For my DRs, I spent close to $250 for two of them installed at Discount Tire. I hope you don't expect DRs to be anywhere near what those slicks did for you. I would definitely try for the 225s since you need as much traction as you can get. Plus, I think the 205/50R15 gearing is a little too small for your 5spd.
Aaron92SE is offline  
Old 07-30-2004, 08:13 PM
  #19  
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
 
I30tMikeD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
For my DRs, I spent close to $250 for two of them installed at Discount Tire. I hope you don't expect DRs to be anywhere near what those slicks did for you. I would definitely try for the 225s since you need as much traction as you can get. Plus, I think the 205/50R15 gearing is a little too small for your 5spd.

Slicks didn't do anything for me since I burnt my clutch up the first time I tried to use them. I expect to be able to pull 2.0 60's with the DR, which is enough for me. I am lucky in that my company has a wholesale account with TireRack, so I can get the DR's shipped to me for less than $200. Installation will be free. I just want something to run at the track that will help me be more consistant with the launch and that I can drive to the track on. Of course slicks are ideal, but they are sold and gone so it's too late now.
I30tMikeD is offline  
Old 07-30-2004, 11:57 PM
  #20  
NWP Engineering.com
iTrader: (128)
 
Aaron92SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Walstonburg, NC
Posts: 14,066
Mike, you should easily be able to pull 2.0s if you know how to launch,... which I know you do. You will have to heat them up for atleast 3 seconds. Also, $200 is a good price. Let me know how the DRs do for ya.
Aaron92SE is offline  
Old 08-01-2004, 09:50 AM
  #21  
Not DAVEB the parts guy
 
Dave B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Mike-

Definitely get the 225/50R15 DRs. BSwithTF (Travis) uses the Millenia & 225/50R15 DR combo on his 96 auto. He gave me his extra Millenia rim so now I need to source another one and get my DRs. I'm hoping for 2.0s myself.
Dave B is offline  
Old 08-20-2004, 12:35 AM
  #22  
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Guttermouf5150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 706
heres what i use...

...of course i still suck even with them...
Guttermouf5150 is offline  
Old 08-20-2004, 05:05 AM
  #23  
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
 
I30tMikeD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Dave B
Mike-

Definitely get the 225/50R15 DRs. BSwithTF (Travis) uses the Millenia & 225/50R15 DR combo on his 96 auto. He gave me his extra Millenia rim so now I need to source another one and get my DRs. I'm hoping for 2.0s myself.
Got my DR's yesterday
I30tMikeD is offline  
Old 08-20-2004, 08:06 AM
  #24  
Not DAVEB the parts guy
 
Dave B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Got my DR's yesterday
Sweet. Don't be stupid like me and try to wet the DRs and do a burnout. It didn't work. Air the tires down to 20psi and do a small dry burnout and see what you get. I got a 2.12 with no burnout what so ever. You should be good for some 2.0s. Oh yeah, your gearing will be completely different now because of the shorter tire. I hit the 7000rpm fuel cut right at finish when I normally would pass the finish at 6700rpms.
Dave B is offline  
Old 08-20-2004, 12:52 PM
  #25  
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Cumalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 7,113
I thought you have to do a burn out to properly warm up the DRs? Maybe go around the water box and then do the burnout?
Cumalot is offline  
Old 08-20-2004, 05:13 PM
  #26  
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
 
I30tMikeD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
I am gonna try all the methods. First I will just run with no burnout at all and see what happens, then a dry, then a wet.
I30tMikeD is offline  
Old 08-20-2004, 05:14 PM
  #27  
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
 
I30tMikeD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Dave B
Sweet. Don't be stupid like me and try to wet the DRs and do a burnout. It didn't work. Air the tires down to 20psi and do a small dry burnout and see what you get. I got a 2.12 with no burnout what so ever. You should be good for some 2.0s. Oh yeah, your gearing will be completely different now because of the shorter tire. I hit the 7000rpm fuel cut right at finish when I normally would pass the finish at 6700rpms.

Got them mounted on my millenia rims today. They are really wide and looks sweet!
I30tMikeD is offline  
Old 08-20-2004, 10:23 PM
  #28  
Not DAVEB the parts guy
 
Dave B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by Cumalot
I thought you have to do a burn out to properly warm up the DRs? Maybe go around the water box and then do the burnout?
Trying to do a burnout with a FWD car with a manual transmission is damn hard. Last week was my first time on DRs and I could never get them to burnout. I'd roll thru the water box, get on a dry surface, rev up to 4000rpms, and quickly release the clutch. This resulted in a frenzy of wheelspin, a tap on the rev limiter, all the while dragging my locked rear tires. I couldn't keep the car stationary. The car just wanted to go forward. I guess I really should have shifted to 2nd with the tires a blaze, but I still think the car would be going forward. Next time I go out, I'll avoid the water and attempt to burnout dry for a short period, however I do worry about my differential, clutch, and axles in situations like this.
Dave B is offline  
Old 08-25-2004, 09:22 AM
  #29  
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Guttermouf5150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 706
Originally Posted by Dave B
Trying to do a burnout with a FWD car with a manual transmission is damn hard. Last week was my first time on DRs and I could never get them to burnout. I'd roll thru the water box, get on a dry surface, rev up to 4000rpms, and quickly release the clutch. This resulted in a frenzy of wheelspin, a tap on the rev limiter, all the while dragging my locked rear tires. I couldn't keep the car stationary. The car just wanted to go forward. I guess I really should have shifted to 2nd with the tires a blaze, but I still think the car would be going forward. Next time I go out, I'll avoid the water and attempt to burnout dry for a short period, however I do worry about my differential, clutch, and axles in situations like this.
yeah the same thing kept happening to me with my slicks, even though i was in the water box. i would get just a slight amount of smoke, and then just move forward. i thought maybe my e-brake wasnt grabbing hard enough. but actually i'm not really sure if the rear tires were actually rolling, or just being dragged along without spinning. i'll have to get someone to watch next time. this is the most amount i was ever able to get!

you could do that on street tires! i was a bit disappointed. but, i had that WRX beat off the line every time, awd and all!
Guttermouf5150 is offline  
Old 08-25-2004, 09:10 PM
  #30  
SLOW
iTrader: (23)
 
Nealoc187's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West burbs, Chicago
Posts: 14,631
Originally Posted by Dave B
Trying to do a burnout with a FWD car with a manual transmission is damn hard. Last week was my first time on DRs and I could never get them to burnout. I'd roll thru the water box, get on a dry surface, rev up to 4000rpms, and quickly release the clutch. This resulted in a frenzy of wheelspin, a tap on the rev limiter, all the while dragging my locked rear tires. I couldn't keep the car stationary. The car just wanted to go forward. I guess I really should have shifted to 2nd with the tires a blaze, but I still think the car would be going forward. Next time I go out, I'll avoid the water and attempt to burnout dry for a short period, however I do worry about my differential, clutch, and axles in situations like this.
why not just do the burnout in the waterbox rather than rolling through it?

also i don't tach it up and drop the clutch to do a burnout, i would think that would be extremely jarring and hard on the clutch and/or transmission. the best way to describe how i do a burnout is the same way i would try to spin the tires on the street if i were trying to lay down some rubber. i dont know about other people but i don't dump the clutch in that case, i increase the rpm while simultaneously releasing the clutch, resulting in a stead climb in rpms from probably 2000rpm where i start releasing the clutch all the way up to redline.
Nealoc187 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BkGreen97
Maximas for Sale / Wanted
2
04-02-2016 05:47 AM
alahjahwan09
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
18
09-21-2015 09:12 PM
Y2kMaxima
Wheels/Tires
2
09-14-2015 10:56 PM
dcam0326
General Maxima Discussion
4
09-08-2015 11:02 PM
jfl330
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
4
09-04-2015 01:44 PM



Quick Reply: Tire wheel combo



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:25 PM.