1/4 and 1/8 Mile RacingTalk about track times, launch techniques, strategies, etc. Check out the "Timeslips" subforum for posted times.No discussion of street racing will be tolerated.
yeah, thats scary dude. i havent checked, but if his car is stick, it is a testament to how well he drives
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Ferbs
Sterling Mist
02 Nissan Maxima Auto
Best et and trap 14.60 @ 95.80 2.27 60'
Best 60' 2.195 - Sumitomo HTR+
Berk Intake/Cattman Ypipe.
Need: 2.1xx 60' time. She has 14.50's in her...
thanks, but its nothing that anyone else around here who goes to the track regularly. ..couldnt do. if i had to guess i would say the track i go to must hook up some kind of good compared to others.
thanks, but its nothing that anyone else around here who goes to the track regularly. ..couldnt do. if i had to guess i would say the track i go to must hook up some kind of good compared to others.
you gotta pat yourself on the back a little bud. come on, that is VERY consistent.
Bro with times like that you should run whenever they have bracket or gambler racing... I forget which one it is. You would take the purse. Depending on the track and entries it could be $500
In brakcet or gmabler racing you run one time, and it sets the time in which you have to nail every time, but you cannot go over.
Most people who run it use auto trannies cause it is more consistent, but your times are tight.
In your case you would want to hit the 14.40's on the first run then, get the 14.39's everytime after. You race against the other guy in your lane. Whoever is closer advances. Last one wins the money. Remember you go over your time, you lose.
Those are awesome times, and this is actually hard to do on a consistent basis.
That's really crazy how consistant you are. How long have you been going to the track? Your 60' times are so good, and so consistant. I'm sure you went over this in another thread, but what is your launch technique?
Ever consider getting slicks?
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5-speed DE-K with 205 whp and 199 wtq SAE corrected
Shortened Koni yellows/Eibachs, Cobra/Q45 brakes, SFC's, LTB, RSB, TB's, all ES bushings, etc...
Relatively quite consistent RTs... but you do realize that those are all false starts right? Anything under 0.500 is a red light.
If you can duplicate similar efforts in the .500 and up range then you've got it made for winning some moolah in bracket racing.
Experienced bracket racers are within 0.01-0.02 sec of their RTs between runs.
Keep up the nice ETs Ceasar! (or should I say keep DOWN the ETs)
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2003 BMW 540i 6-spd - present
2008 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - present
2005 Mazda 3 Sport GT 5-spd - past
1995 Maxima SE 5-spd black on black on black - past
Pacesetter STS | Stillen FSTB & RSB | Budget Y-pipe & B-pipe | PR CAI | MEVI | ACT Stage 1 clutch | UR flywheel | DM crank pulley | SSR Type C | JWT ECU | K-sport coilovers
13.89 @ 98.35
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2003 Black G35 sedan automatic
Best ET: 14.32, Best MPH: 99.87mph
Mods: MD spacer, HR y-pipe, RevUp airbox, Z-tube, 05 sedan midpipe, 350Z/Coupe springs, lots of other stuff
Sold -1996 Black SE 5-speed MEVI & JWT ECU equipped
14.31@99.34mph with a 2.18 60'
Impressive consistency. I was just about as consistent last time i went to the track, hitting 2.3 (horrible) 60fts and consistent 14.4 @ 100+. Whats your PB 60ft? Mines a 2.11 but i was never able to duplicate it. I ran that 60ft when i ran my fastest all motor run of a 14.9@90 (<- oddly low mph) It seems to be either that my local (well 1 and a half hours away!!) track doesnt like hooking up anymore, or my Yoko AVS ES100's just suck. I know that if i got some of those 2.1 60fts, and grippier tires i could be hitting a 13.999-to very low 14s and some nice numbers with slicks.
On a side note, do you use race gas when you go to the track? I wonder if some 100/105 octane and nitrous would be a nice mix and produce some good numbers...
__________________ '01 Dodge Stratus R/T Coupe 5-speed - Black on Black/Gray Leather...
I30mike was also very consistant I believe. You guys should run bracket racing. Your R/T's are consistant too but I would work on them a little. Take more risks. If you want to be really competitive even in the sportsman or street classes, you need consistant .050's and lower. Slicks also help to be consistant I believe. Plenty of guys running around with stock cars are dedicated drivers.
Last year I tried bracket racing once. There are 3 classes where I am. Super Pro is 7.50-10.99 (electronics class), sportsman is 10.00-13.49 (people running 10.00-10.99 can decide whether they go sportsman or super pro), and finally street (13.50+).
My trails were 15.33, 15.21, 15.16 and 15.20, respectively. So I dialed 15.14 and won the first round due to the opponent redlighting. The second round I won because the guy went under his dial-in by like 3 tenths. Then I redlighted my third run and went 15.09 on my 15.14 dial anyway.
Bracket racing can be very hard. But at least you're not in the electronics class. My dad runs 9.3's but doesn't have a delay box (dragsters always have this, and it makes then cut crazy .015-.010 lights all the time). At our track when you run 9.99 or faster you HAVE to run with the delay box/electronics guys, even if you don't have one. Very, very hard.
...many mods...
...few mods...
Linear Mode
