1/4 and 1/8 Mile RacingTalk about track times, launch techniques, strategies, etc. Check out the "Timeslips" subforum for posted times.No discussion of street racing will be tolerated.
That's the one thing that keeps me inconsitant on times is the launch. I've tried 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000 and 2200. I've tried both with full tire pressure and between 20-25psi on stock SE wheels(95-96 SE) No matter what I do, I either bogg out or get massive wheels spin. Only a couple times out of the 50 something times I've raced have I got a perfect launch. Any suggestions besides drag radials?
Originally posted by SmoothMax That's the one thing that keeps me inconsitant on times is the launch. I've tried 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000 and 2200. I've tried both with full tire pressure and between 20-25psi on stock SE wheels(95-96 SE) No matter what I do, I either bogg out or get massive wheels spin. Only a couple times out of the 50 something times I've raced have I got a perfect launch. Any suggestions besides drag radials?
You are not going to get consistent times with stock tires no matter what you do (if you are running in the 13's). Drag radials help a bit but still not great (I have a pair of Nitto 555R's). The only way is with slicks (I have a pair of M/T 22x8x15's) unless you want to run N/A all the time. Its hard enough in an auto, its a lot worse in a manual.
Originally posted by SmoothMax That's the one thing that keeps me inconsitant on times is the launch. I've tried 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000 and 2200. I've tried both with full tire pressure and between 20-25psi on stock SE wheels(95-96 SE) No matter what I do, I either bogg out or get massive wheels spin. Only a couple times out of the 50 something times I've raced have I got a perfect launch. Any suggestions besides drag radials?
I don't think I'd worry about it too much because you're obviously doing something right if you're getting 14.3@97mph NA. If you're bogging and/or spinning off the line and are still getting lower 14s, I'm jealous. I always spin and get 14.6-14.7 at high 96-97mph.
It seems like most of the quicker guys in here wind up to 2500-3000rpms and slip the clutch and feed the VQ gas. It's a fairly quick motion. I do have to disagree with Jime though. I'm incredibly consistent with street tires in the 60' and 1/4. The problem is my 60' and 1/4 suck due to traction I do agree that slicks are the only way to get excellent 60 foots. The question is if your tranny can deal with the stress. IMO, short height 15" drag radials are probably the safest bet.
Dave
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2003 Black G35 sedan automatic
Best ET: 14.32, Best MPH: 99.87mph
Mods: MD spacer, HR y-pipe, RevUp airbox, Z-tube, 05 sedan midpipe, 350Z/Coupe springs, lots of other stuff
Sold -1996 Black SE 5-speed MEVI & JWT ECU equipped
14.31@99.34mph with a 2.18 60'
I do have to disagree with Jime though. I'm incredibly consistent with street tires in the 60' and 1/4. The problem is my 60' and 1/4 suck due to traction I do agree that slicks are the only way to get excellent 60 foots. The question is if your tranny can deal with the stress. IMO, short height 15" drag radials are probably the safest bet.
Dave
But you are running 14's. I qualified that with a (if you are running in the 13's), if you reread my post. Running N/A in the 14's with street tires is no problem. SmoothMax is running 13.6 with NOS and thats a different story altogether.
The difference between 14.6 and 13.6 is HUGE.
That's the problem all together with me is consistancy. The 14.3 and 13.6 were my best times with almost perfect track conditions. On average, I run about a 14.7 N/A and around a 13.9 with the juice. There's a guy at the track who has a GTP and is pretty consitant with his times and never spins out. I finally asked him his secret and he told me it was all in the tires. He's using Nitto555R's and is running high 13,s consistantly. Maybe I can't compare the two, but my question is will the 555R's help put me into the low 13's?
Originally posted by SmoothMax That's the problem all together with me is consistancy. The 14.3 and 13.6 were my best times with almost perfect track conditions. On average, I run about a 14.7 N/A and around a 13.9 with the juice. There's a guy at the track who has a GTP and is pretty consitant with his times and never spins out. I finally asked him his secret and he told me it was all in the tires. He's using Nitto555R's and is running high 13,s consistantly. Maybe I can't compare the two, but my question is will the 555R's help put me into the low 13's?
They will help, they certainly have more traction than any stock tire. I have a pair of 205x45x15 555R's. They are 22" in height the same as my slicks which make a huge difference in the gear ratio of your car. It lowers it tremendously making for a quicker 60' etc. But at the same time it makes it easier to spin so not sure if it will give you the same help it gave me with my automatic.
The slicks are a much better way to go if you want maximum traction and a lower gear ratio as well.
Originally posted by SmoothMax How much did you pay for your slicks Jime? Are you running them on your stock wheels or would I have to get new wheels as well?
I got mine for free my Son gave them to me from his VR6 but they are around $120 ea. I went out and bought a set of 7"x15 rims for them, I wouldn't put them on anything narrower because they will round up in the center and you will lose traction. That is also what M/T recommends.
Also if you are on nitrous get the 22" because the lower ratio you get helps tremendously in the 1/4. If you are turbo or getting up into the 400 HP range get larger ones.
If you watch my 60' video you will see how they hook up, its like a rocket out of the hole. I don't think anyone has beaten my 1.8 60' time yet auto or stick so they definately work.
Have you always used your FPSS? I was advised that I probably wouldn't need it until I go above a 60shot, and the same goes for a new fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Also, how difficult was the install on the FPR. Oh, and how did you manage to fit your FPSS and your fuel pressure sender for your FP gauge on the same line? I also heard you've ran as high as a 125shot, is this true and what are you running currently....I think that's it for the questions
Have you always used your FPSS? I was advised that I probably wouldn't need it until I go above a 60shot, and the same goes for a new fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Also, how difficult was the install on the FPR. Oh, and how did you manage to fit your FPSS and your fuel pressure sender for your FP gauge on the same line? I also heard you've ran as high as a 125shot, is this true and what are you running currently....I think that's it for the questions
1. I just put the FPSS on when I switched over from NOS to NX a month or so ago. I put it on because its set for 30-40 psi or so and not much good for NOS because if your fuel pressure gets that low on NOS your engine is probably already toast. However NX runs stock fuel pressure so it works quite well.
2. I had the fuel pump and fpr from the beginning because I knew I wouldn't be happy until I hit 100 shot or higher.
3. The install of the FPR was real easy, getting the old FPR off was not, the phillips screws are real difficult because of their positioning, hard to get any kind of a driver on them.
4. I have 3 outlets on same line. One for the FPSS, one for the gauge and one for the fuel line to the nitrous solenoid because I have a wet system now. You have to be a plumber almost, I will post a pic of it as soon as I get my camera back if you are interested.
5. I did try the 125 shot its awesome, I tried it in second gear around 50 mph 4k rpm in second, put it to full throttle waited a second then hit the switch, burns rubber. Gotta feel it to believe it.
6. Still have the 125 shot in, gonna hit the track within the next week or two and try it out.
I'm convinced! Looks like I've got a little ways to go though.
1. Install FPSS
2. Purchase and install adjustable FPR
3. Purchase and install new fuel pump
4. Purchase a set of M/T slicks
5. Purchase new wheels
Now as far as plugs go, it was my understanding that iridium plugs were the best for the job because they last just as long as platinum plugs, if not longer and I don't have to worry about flaking. Also as long as I have cold running plugs, I don't have to worry about running too hot and melting the electrodes. Oh and I also was under the impression that as long as I decreased the gap according to my hp figures, that not getting or losing a spark wouldn't be a problem. Is this not accurate??
Quote:
Originally posted by Jime
1. I just put the FPSS on when I switched over from NOS to NX a month or so ago. I put it on because its set for 30-40 psi or so and not much good for NOS because if your fuel pressure gets that low on NOS your engine is probably already toast. However NX runs stock fuel pressure so it works quite well.
2. I had the fuel pump and fpr from the beginning because I knew I wouldn't be happy until I hit 100 shot or higher.
3. The install of the FPR was real easy, getting the old FPR off was not, the phillips screws are real difficult because of their positioning, hard to get any kind of a driver on them.
4. I have 3 outlets on same line. One for the FPSS, one for the gauge and one for the fuel line to the nitrous solenoid because I have a wet system now. You have to be a plumber almost, I will post a pic of it as soon as I get my camera back if you are interested.
5. I did try the 125 shot its awesome, I tried it in second gear around 50 mph 4k rpm in second, put it to full throttle waited a second then hit the switch, burns rubber. Gotta feel it to believe it.
6. Still have the 125 shot in, gonna hit the track within the next week or two and try it out.
Originally posted by SmoothMax Now as far as plugs go, it was my understanding that iridium plugs were the best for the job because they last just as long as platinum plugs, if not longer and I don't have to worry about flaking. Also as long as I have cold running plugs, I don't have to worry about running too hot and melting the electrodes. Oh and I also was under the impression that as long as I decreased the gap according to my hp figures, that not getting or losing a spark wouldn't be a problem. Is this not accurate??
I am not too sure on the iridium plugs. The reason for not using platinums though is not the flaking thats BS, its because the smaller electrode produces a smaller spark and is in danger of being blown out with the higher pressure etc from the nitrous. The copper electrode is much larger and doesn't have that problem. (That tidbit is from Tech Support at NX) Not sure how large the iridium electrode is but I am staying with copper its what the big boys use.
I run two steps colder gapped at .035 for anything 100HP and up and it works fine. Each step colder removes 50 deg from cyl temp.
So what are the benefits, in your opinion, of the NX kit over the NOS kit? I know the NX kit is more expensive since it's a wet kit, but does it really make a difference?
Originally posted by SmoothMax So what are the benefits, in your opinion, of the NX kit over the NOS kit? I know the NX kit is more expensive since it's a wet kit, but does it really make a difference?
There are many benefits the biggest being able to run at stock fuel pressure, so less chance of something going wrong.
NOS uses the stock fuel delivery, via raising the fuel pressure by tricking the regulator. This is ok with smaller shots but at the higher ones you max out your injectors and are in danger of lockup. I was running 85 psi for a 100 shot and max is 95. NX uses stock pressure of 43 psi for all shots.
The NX kit can be bought for under $500 so its not really much more than NOS. The solenoids are much larger, very high quality and guaranteed for life. Install and setup is virtually identical to the NOS kit. No tuning is required just install the jets indicated for your car or fuel pressure and thats it.
The last time I was at the track I ran a 15.7 N/A and 13 mins later on the next run with the only change being hitting the nitrous button I ran a 13.1, thats 2.6 seconds faster. The best I could hit on the same shot with NOS was 13.6.
You hear all the wives tales about puddling, backfiring etc but only from guys who haven't run NX, not the guys who have. Actually NOS created puddling from the inefficiency of their wet system nozzle, that’s why they say in their manual "wet systems are prone to poor mixture distribution and fuel puddling causing backfires".
I do agree that slicks are the only way to get excellent 60 foots. The question is if your tranny can deal with the stress. IMO, short height 15" drag radials are probably the safest bet.
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